Never done this before -- so be gentle.
Want to try making up some doors - thinking oak for rails and stiles and
*thinking* 1/4" oak plywood for panels. I'm guessing I can get by with just
a simple rail/stile bit set like this:
- don't need the raised panel bit, often found in 3 piece sets, since I'm
using flat 1/4" plywood for the panels, right?
- I like the Whiteside 6004 style. Diagram shows one bit - but *two* come,
since I need the "cope" and "stick" profiles, right?
- "cope" and "stick" are the right terms? Instead'a "male/female"
These doors are destined for some basement cabinets, thus my desire to
reduce costs by using plywood panels. Any thing special about making panels
out of plywood? Will the undersized thickness of the plywood mean the panels
will rattle in the frame?
Any websites out there with some "getting started instructions" or "tips 'n
techniques" I can peruse?
Correct. The raised panel bit is pretty useless anyhow because it is
normally too small. You need a 3hp for a real raised panel bit, and since
most people don't have one they give you a little bit that is pretty
You can get two bits, or a single one that is reversable. The single one is
a little cheaper, but the pair saves a lot of fussing and presumably lasts
longer. If this is your only project, buy a single. If you expect to be
doing more in the future, buy the pair.
I happen to prefer plywood to raised panels, but that is just me.
Yes, undersized will rattle a little, but it is nothing serious. They make
undersized bits to go with it if you see it as a problem.
I have bought from MLCS (or MCLS, or something like that...) They include a
booklet that explains how to use all the specialty bits.
I don't agree. I've cut many raised panels, as well as stiles and
rails, in oak, MDF, birch, and ash, with a Bosch 1617EVS in a table.
The 1617 is only 2-1/4 HP. I have no urge to upgrade to a larger
router in my table. I usually use 2 passes, using a stop block behind
one end of the fence. I align the fence for a perfect cut with test
blocks, clamp the block in place, and move that end of the fence about
1/2" out from the block. It works like a charm. Even with bigger
routers, I prefer two passes, a hogging cut and a finish cut.
At one of our local woodworking schools, the owner used an older
DeWalt 1 1/4 HP router in a table for EIGHT YEARS with good results.
<G> >You can get two bits, or a single one that is reversable. The single one is
Ditto. Go with the two bit set over a single bit.
The Whiteside 6004 is a 2-piece set. Having said that, some C&S sets come
with just one bit - these have 2 sets of cutters on the same shank, and one
simply raises or lowers the cutter according to which cut one is making.
"Cope" and "Stick" are the AmerEnglish terms. In the UK, they'd be
described as "scribe" and "profile" bits, respectively. Confusingly enough,
we also talk about coped joints, coping planes etc, and the old term for
cutting a profile with an old-fashioned moulding plane was "sticking a
Your stock must be accurately square, with opposing faces and edges exactly
parallel, and free from winding and, particularly, cupping. This method of
doormaking is very intolerant of inaccuracy. Make extra stock for practice
Finish sand as far as you can before making the cuts, bearing in mind the
need for accurate squareness. You'll still have some levelling and cleaning
afterwards, but there's less risk of sanding off part of your profile.
Get organised - Mark the face side and face edge on all components and stack
the components in the order and orientation in which they will go through
the cutter, otherwise you're in danger of cutting a profile on the outside
of the stile, instead of the inside. Etc
Cut the copes before the profiles, if possible - the succeeding profile cut
will tend to clean-up any slight breakout by the cope cutter on half the
joints at least.
Run a series of practice cuts on stock of the exactly the same dimensions.
Use an accurate height gauge to note the cutter settings, so that you can
repeat the cuts, when you find - after you've changed the bit, of course -
that you've missed a couple of pieces. Once you've got the practice cuts
right, keep a cope and a stick offcut as patterns, so that you can simply
use them to set the cutter heights on the next project.
Glue a strip of abrasive paper to your mitre fence to stop the work creeping
out of the cutter as you cut the copes.
Use a sacrificial block behind the workpiece to stop breakout when you're
cutting the copes. You may want to stick some abrasive paper to this as
Use hold-downs and/or featherboards wherever practical, and lube your router
table with wax or somesuch.
Do your glue-ups on a dead flat surface.
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
Here are a few sites with some good tips. One is for raised panels, bur the
procedure on the rails & stiles is the same.
There is a thin line between hobby & mental illness.
Take out the TRASH for E-mail.
You have had several other answers but I didn't see anyone address the
problem or the panel rattling. That can be mostly eliminated by space
balls, or some other rubber like substance in the panel grove.
We won't hurt you...
Yep.. you need a matched rail & stile set...
Flat panels are accepted through out the entire free world.
You need to order some "space balls" to handle any rattle...
Use a dab or two of glue...
Freud dealers generally have a very detailed brochure
that was an article in American Woodworker a year or two
back. THe brochure as well as the article are excellent
"paths" to take...
here is one from Jesada...
I think Frank pretty much said it all. One little thing I might add is that
my cutters are also for 1/4" panels and 1/4" plywood fits really loose. I
use 1/2" ply that is rabbetted to fit the groove. It gives a heavier, more
substantial door. Also, spaceballs
(http://www.cshardware.com/spaceballs.htm ) help keep down the rattle.
Check out http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/tutorial-finetunerailstile.asp
and although you aren't doing arched doors -
In spite what one of the articles say, always do the cope cut first, then
the stick cut. Make your rails a little wider than what is required for
glue up. That way you can trim it to width which takes care of any
"blowout" by the cope cutter. Also, if I want stiles and rails that are 2
3/8" wide, I glue up doors with 2 7/16" stiles and rails. After glue up, I
trim off 1/32" of each of the stiles with a jointer and 1/32" off the top
and bottom with a crosscut sled to clean up the door.
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