On Friday, March 22, 2013 5:31:15 AM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:
1/4" pipe? LOL. I'll certainly give your suggestion some consideration.
Since my replying, I've thought: The guy I got the rollers from may have
moved all that "scrap stuff", he had near his barn, to a back field. The
guy collected lots of discorded/broken stuff, to the chagrin of his wife (a
nd others), and he isn't one to readily get rid of "good" scrap, so there m
ay be rollers still available. I think I'll give him a visit. If any are
available, a few beers should do it... and a sitting through his tome of st
IME and observation (not scientific either ;) ), storing any lumber flat
gives the seller a better chance that, if and when it bows, it does so
after the customer has paid for it.
Storing hardwoods vertically, and without pressure from above and below
causing it to (temporarily?) stay flat, gives the customer a better
chance of choosing a board that will stay that way. :)
AAMOF, experienced that exact scenario Tuesday at Clark's when buying
Clarks, unlike Hardwood Products, only stores their S2S1E hardwoods
vertically. The rest, including all dimensioned, seems to be uniformly
(I'll be heading back to Clarks within the hour to check over their
"shop plywood" bin ... don't need $125 worth of 3/4" walnut ply and
hoping they have a piece that will fit the bill.)
Valid point. Perhaps we should make an arrangement such that we not pay
for wood/lumber until after it has been used in a project, to prevent it
from bowing before we pay for it. :~)
My assumption was that the weight of the board would set the bow but I
will say that when I find the flat ones that are stored vertically that
they stay that way.
Probably too late now, I think resawing some of that Arkansas post
material and gluing up for a top for the table would be cool, voids,
checks, cracks and all. Fill the voids with black epoxy.
But considering for whom you are building this, it might not be quite
perfect enough. ;~)
I have Sheet steel that weigh several hundred pounds a sheet.
They bow and their 3/8 or 1/2" thick!
Gravity is a killer.
Have a double width stack or better yet - have a roll up cart
that you can slide sheets onto it, take the one you want and
move them back on the stack. Store the cart by the other goods.
On 3/21/2013 9:15 AM, Leon wrote:
Kinda depends on how much weight you intend to put on it, no?
You mentioned pipe. When I was living in Mexico all the water heaters sat
on 3/4" galvanized pipes embedded (horizontally) in the masonry walls.
For my own rack...
My problem was that the lumber rack was to be on a concrete block
wall which would have required a lot of PITA drilling if I depended on the
CB wall for support. I didn't. Instead...
1. 5 - 2x4 uprights, floor to ceiling length
2. Uprights hooked together on edge at 24" interval by two pieces of 3/4"
ply about 5-6 inches wide set into the uprights at about 18-24" from top and
bottom of uprights.
3. Hooked together uprights were attached to wall with screws through the
ply into the
furring strips under the drywall.
4. Arms are 21" 2x4s lapped on each side with pieces of 3/4" ply; the ply
pieces are longer than the 2x4 so the ply fully overlaps the uprights and
are attached to them with 2 - 1/4" bolts. Each upright has four arms.
Now, that isn't going to hold up much weight before the screws pull out of
the furring strips so...
5. I made a plinth of PT 2x4s that is butted against the uprights and
Tapconed to the floor. It has a piece of 1/4 ply on top so that sawdust
doesn't accumulate inside.
That helps hold the rack up but not all that much. What really holds it
6. A 2x4 across the front of the uprights at the ceiling and lagged to each
The top set of arms was positioned so that long pieces lumber could extend
over the top of a door. They can extend to the other side too. I could get
16' lengths on the arms but there would be a 4' overhang on each end...too
much except to get something out of the way temporarily.
At the moment I have about 1500 pounds of lumber on it, steady as a rock.
I did something very similar to that (using header in joists/trusses to
take the lateral load) in the garage in the house in TN. I did the same
w/ the arms except I made sizable gussets that took up a sizable amount
of storage height 'cuz I wasn't confident of the load support of just
the same or only slightly wider than the tubafor arms. How much do you
think that arm will support comfortably, any idea?
Also in the Swing response I estimated the current onhand stock at
something like 1200 bft of rough stock w/o accounting for the
miscellaneous at all...so that's roughly 100 cu-ft at (say) 45 lb/cu-ft
or call it 5000 lb. I'd guess all in all there's half-again that much
more "stuff" of various types, sizes, species scattered around that
would eventually like to get located out of the various places it's
Well, I can hang from one without any difficulty and I weigh <sob> 220. I
wouldn't have any qualms about putting 500# on one. Especially with the
weight distributed along the length of the arm. I have four arms along each
"row" so that would be what? around 400 bf? I've never had that much on one
row though so I can't say for sure.
Basically, there would have to be enough weight on the arm for it to rip the
1/4" bolts through 1 1/2" of plywood.
As an added thought, the weight bearing of the arms would be increased
greatly if one were to screw small, plywood "thrust blocks" to the uprights
just above and below where the plywood on each arm laps the upright.
Making the plywood solid piece w/ a gusset in the corner is the
strongest, of course, in resisting the moment arm torque. The pure
vertical load isn't much difficulty in resisting; it's the bending
moment that's harder.
I had just made them so large before out of uncertainty they were a
pita. One could, of course, try to do some calculating... :)
But, I went back to the scrap iron pile yesterday and dug a little more
-- looks like I've got enough pieces of various angle of at least 2x2 to
make two levels long enough to have roughly 2-ft on both sides of the
one column--think that's what I'll do--just lag them into the columns.
If'en the spacing between bolt locations isn't enough to have enough
torque resistance I can add a gusset plate as needed...
Appreciate everybody's input...I'll try to post some pictures of the old
barn redo here at some point...I didn't have a camera w/ a USB
connection at the time we did the major restoration work so it was a
pita to do then...
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