Client wants bedside tables. Wants them to be absolutely minimal in
their external details. Wants a couple of drawers, but doesn't want
drawer handles on them.
So we're thinking about spring loaded "press to open" catches. These
would open the drawer a little, then you use the drawer face edges as
drawer pulls to open it all the way.
I've used these on doors, but never on drawers. The ones I've used
before need about 1/8" - 3/16" of push before the spring fires. I'm
now wondering how to handle the edges of the drawers - I'd like to
have them butt against the sides of the carcase, but obviously I need
to allow some space for the drawer to move backwards, so as to fire
Any thoughts ? Thanks
In my opinion, the drawer face should be flush with the surrounding
wood, no overlap, when using thses. A drawer front that overlaps the
carcase destroys the simplicity of design. But go ahead if you want,
just make the overlap thin (most of drawer front flush with carcase)
with a design that doesn't hint at the drawer being pushed in.
Put them at the rear of the dawer with the drawer flush [with
allowance] with the carcase, and room at the rear for the catch
mechanism. The drawer front should be flush when locked.
A loaded drawer would resist motion, so you *really* need
free-wheeling movement ...well waxed, teflon, or something like that.
Agreed, so I'm thinking of buying in metal runners with wheels,
mounted beneath the drawer so as to be invisible. They run more
freely than my usual waxed maple strips - even if I put a UHMW or HDPE
slip in there..
I can still mount them at the front, under the drawer body and between
The idea of setting the drawer faces between the carcase sides is
interesting, because I think that's the best way to hide the clearance
I'll need to allow for the initial backward movement.
It would seem that someone used "push to open" catches and posted a picture in
"alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" a couple
of weeks ago. He had modified that latches and made them work on the top-back of the
As I remember, he had added a "extension" to the latch to get a greater distance of
movement before latching and unlatching
which may be enough to get the drawer face out far enough to get fingers behind it.
It was posted by Mark Johnson on 9/5/2004 and was labeled "Touch latch extension
finger (Changing table 4/3).
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