Does anyone have a good method of dealing with polyurethane glue oozing out of a joint for a couple of hours? It sands wonderfully, but in cove that is of little help, and it looks like hell if you can't clean it out. I use it rarely, but I needed the long open time, and now I am scraping it off every
Let it foam out and dry, then knock it off.
1) Tape off the wood around the joint so it sticks to the tape instead of the wood 2) Let it dry to a foam and then *scrape* it off (cut a coke can to match the cove profile) 3) Use hide glue. Has a long open time and is plenty strong.
Not really. There are other choices.
I'm kind of interested in this too. I've used hide glue, carpenter's glue, and similar products in the past. Recently I was introduced to polyurethane glue (e.g., "Gorilla Glue") and decided to try it. I knew about the foaming, so it wasn't a surprise. But it seems that this is a "high maintenance" glue in the sense that you can't just glue, fit, clamp, wipe up, and then go watch "Gilligan's Island" reruns while it sets.
So for the benefit of us neophytes, can you wise, experienced people give us a brief summary of Comparative Glue 101? Thanks.
--Jay
I haven't used Gorilla a lot, but it's pretty much the same maintenance level as yellow glue. The only extra step is a bit of water, but that's balanced by not having to coat both surfaces with glue.
I used it to glue up some mitred corners for a small pine box and it worked just fine. I spread a thin coat of Gorilla on one side of the joint, used a damp paper towel to quickly (and lightly) moisten the other side. I then taped the joint to clamp and went to watch CSI.
A couple hours later I checked the joints - no excessive foaming found
- and left it over night.
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