Does anyone have a good method of dealing with polyurethane glue oozing out
of a joint for a couple of hours? It sands wonderfully, but in cove that is
of little help, and it looks like hell if you can't clean it out. I use it
rarely, but I needed the long open time, and now I am scraping it off every
10 minutes. God, I hate that. Is there any answer (other than not to use
1) Tape off the wood around the joint so it sticks to the tape instead
of the wood
2) Let it dry to a foam and then *scrape* it off (cut a coke can to
match the cove profile)
3) Use hide glue. Has a long open time and is plenty strong.
| >... Is there any answer (other than not to use it?)
| Not really. There are other choices.
I'm kind of interested in this too. I've used hide glue, carpenter's glue,
and similar products in the past. Recently I was introduced to polyurethane
glue (e.g., "Gorilla Glue") and decided to try it. I knew about the
foaming, so it wasn't a surprise. But it seems that this is a "high
maintenance" glue in the sense that you can't just glue, fit, clamp, wipe
up, and then go watch "Gilligan's Island" reruns while it sets.
So for the benefit of us neophytes, can you wise, experienced people give us
a brief summary of Comparative Glue 101? Thanks.
I haven't used Gorilla a lot, but it's pretty much the same
maintenance level as yellow glue. The only extra step is a bit of
water, but that's balanced by not having to coat both surfaces with
I used it to glue up some mitred corners for a small pine box and it
worked just fine. I spread a thin coat of Gorilla on one side of the
joint, used a damp paper towel to quickly (and lightly) moisten the
other side. I then taped the joint to clamp and went to watch CSI.
A couple hours later I checked the joints - no excessive foaming found
- and left it over night.
On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 16:10:44 -0700, "Jay Windley"
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