This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain & poly all in one can.
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sanded it down to 220 by hand then put the Polyshades on with a rag (no sealer coat first). I didn't get any blotching and the color was very even. The only 'defect' was a few places where a thin dark line appeared.
I did have to knock down some fuzz with #00 and apply a second coat but the second coat dried nice and smooth. I will probably put another coat or two on the top and drawer fronts for more protection.
So if you ever need to get it done right away, you might want to try this stuff. YMMV.
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I am building a white pine dining room table and used Watco dark walnut...
K
Kate
but but but... where are the photos of the project?
I did have to knock down some fuzz with #00 and apply a second coat but the second coat dried nice and smooth. I will probably put another coat or two on the top and drawer fronts for more protection.
So if you ever need to get it done right away, you might want to try this stuff. YMMV.
M
Max
"Kate" wrote
Here's a picture of Polyshades (Pecan) on Pine.
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didn't care for the looks but the woman who requested it was really pleased.
Max
S
SonomaProducts.com
Yep, actually a great solution for Pine. It is a film finish with color toners added so it is not penetrating the wood per-se and thus no blotching problem. I've never tried rag application of this but sound interesting. Did you thin it down like a wipe on preperation or rag it at full strength?
A few of the downsides of this type of product is it is real easy to get darker secti> This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
S
Swingman
"RayV" wrote
Nothing wrong with Polyshades on jummywood ... I've even done it myself, using a conditioner first, with excellent results.
What'll get your cabal privileges revoked is using PolyShades on cherry!
Be advised that not even JOAT has enough pull with the woodworking gawds to save you from a heresy of that magnitude!
R
RayV
My cable provider doesn't provide newsgroups so I can't get to ABPW. Besides I didn't build it, it was purchased locally at an unfinished furniture store.
The manufacturer was
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great quality but was only $150 so I can't complain, besides who would listen?
R
RayV
No prep, and wiped it on full strength with t-shirt. I did have to smooth out the coats by wiping each coat twice to get rid of the lap marks.
1
10x
Be advised that the only acceptable finish for cherry is black paint... flat or gloss makes no difference :-)
Joe
J
Joe Brophy
On Mon, 10 Dec 2007 05:44:47 -0800 (PST), RayV wrote:
+++++++ I used polyshades on an antique coffee table that had a combination of thin ply, and solid mahogany. The original finish appeared to be lacquer and had a couple of lifetimes worth of wax and who know what else build up on it. I had concern for wearing through the veneer on the surface of the plywood (laminated veneer?) so I began by scraping (seemingly forever) with only light sanding with 220 prior to application of the "conditioner". I assumed incorrectly that the conditioner was just another name for a sealer but in practice it is more like the wood equivalent to the stuff used to paint autos with called "reducer". It helped blend areas with the stain that might have been still sealed from previous finish, or glue that in my situation was sometimes a compromise to get it as clean as possible without wearing through the veneer. The combination of the reducer and stain plus an additional number of coats of poly spar varnish provided a stellar result, and after I repair one of the legs to replace about a one inch piece on the "toe" of one of the legs that somebody sawed off in the past, install the new brass "cats paw" toe caps (I think the piece is made in the Duncan Hyphen style) and finish the inside of the center drawer in black enamel I will quit working on it. (My projects rarely become "done" it seems, so I prefer to say I just stopped working on it because I ran out of things that I wanted to do to it....)
When completed I'd like to post it for everybody here to comment on, what is the preferred method of making the pics available, the "tiny URL" or using the other newsgroup for binaries? My biggest disappointment with this project was in not getting "before" images. If someone could email or post me some guidance on posting I'd appreciate it, TIA. Joe.
S
Swingman
B
Bill
what conditioner do I use first on (unfinished pine) before applying Polyshades (i have Polyshades walnut) ??
B
Bill
I have unfinished pine I was thinking of using Polyshades on and I wasn't sure if I had to "treat" it first with somthing? snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com
M
Markem618
From a review of Polyshades
Application of this product takes a lot of time Application of this product takes a lot of time and patience. It works okay for what it is, but what it is is a dinosaur. This product is little different than what I used in 1963 when I was 15 years old. For my current 2024 project, I had to
Apply Minwax conditioner to the wood first.
Clean the brush using mineral spirits
Apply a first coat of Polyshades
Clean the brush with mineral spirits
Discover that the actual dry time at 65 degrees and 50% relative was not the advertised Six hours but closer to 24 hours. I could never have scuff sanded the finish at six hours; it was still tacky.
Discover that the coatings had turned white for some reason and Im not going to blame the wood, so I had to sand off the white discoloration.
Recoat the work piece.
Clean the brush with mineral spirits.
Wait about 18 more hours.
Scuff sand
Final coat
Clean the brush with mineral spirits. It worked okay, but do yourselves a favor: spend the extra money on Varathane One-step water based stain and poly. It really does get your project done 5X faster.
L
Leon
Or paint it.
M
Markem618
I like the Varathane option.
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