Poly over tung oil won't dry - Help!

it might be faster to make a new jig and burn that one!

dave

Mowgli wrote:

Depending on the ratio, it can take a while to dry. I mixed some poly/tung/mineral sprits to try a wiping finish. Took about 3 days to set up. Try wiping it with mineral spirits? Ed

Why are you applying a finish to a jig?

On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 23:17:09 GMT, Rumpty's fingers viciously stabbed at an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward haiku:

Thanks for the helpful information. That'll get that dang tung oil out.

On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 20:44:12 GMT, Edwin Pawlowski's fingers viciously stabbed at an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward haiku:

Thanks Ed, I'll try that.

Mowgli

Uuhhhmmmm....minimize moisture transfer...to minimize wood movement... to minimize inaccuracies in the jig introduced by wood movement...to make the jig useful after the season changes.

"Mowgli" wrote >

What kind of cutting will you be doing?

On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:06:09 -0400, Morgans's fingers viciously stabbed at an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward haiku:

A little bit of everything, rip, c-c, plywood... I have a ts, bs, scm, chainsaw, etc..but some stuff's just too big for my small shop, it helps me to cut stuff to near the right size. Good, not too expensive all-purpose blade? Freud? 40t? ??

Mowgli

For remodeling work, or when nails may get cut, B & D Piranha blades will cut though a dozen 16d nails before it is junk. Best by far.

For general work, Irwin Marathon blades are pretty good, and are readily available, and the price is right. Plywood blades, I don't have an opinion, just one with lots and lots of teeth.

If you have to resort to scrape and wipe, it's time to consider that it may be the wood itself.

Poorly resin-set pine can ooze almost forever, and no finish save shellac has a chance, because the ooze is what they distill to make turpentine. I use shellac to seal my jigs, but I make them of ply or composition material, because that gives me an automatic leg up on stability.

Make your jigs outta um let's say birch ply, you have no movement.

Unfortunately, my experience says otherwise.

You might consider buying a better quality ply.

EVERY wood moves. The question is "how much?" Ed

Every wood moves regardless of finish, no? Build your jigs outta quality birch ply and any movement you won't notice. If the movement you see outta a ply jig gives you concern, your product design needs to be refined.

Correct. If it is finished it is less likely to move from moisture though, but not impossible either.

I put a finish on all of my jigs and templates just to keep them cleaner looking. If nothing else, my heirs will be able to get the full $26,000 that shops go for on eBay. Ed

On Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:36:23 GMT, Chris Merrill pixelated:

How much does your baltic birch ply move, Chris?

------------------------------- Iguana: The other green meat! -------------------------------

Enough for a 24x18 crosscut sled to wobble on the surface of my TS -- I'd guess 1/16"...maybe 1/8". It was flat when I built it.

(sorry for the late reply...been away)

As a follow-up...apparently I'm not the only one to have plywood jigs move over time:

(see the section titled "Why MDF?")