Used MDF molding for flexibility, It hugged the wall tightly on its own.
Used Painters caulk as you suggested, a dollop every foot of so on the backside of the molding.
Laid it up against the wall with heavy paper underneath in case any dripped down on the flooring and pressed it against the wall. While it was doing a fairly good job on its own I went ahead and shoot 16 gauge finishing nails in a ( / \ ) fashion to be sure the floor molding stayed where in should. I made sure to shoot above the sheet metal footer, and to not hit any of the studs. :)
Looks great, except at one outside corner it doesn't even look like it needs silicone caulking to finish it off, but I'll probably use some anyhow when I get to painting the rooms.
Thanks heaps, your info gave me the confidence to do it properly.
I just did it all today, last weekend ended up too busy to do it. :(
Well... thanks for the kind words. More importantly, glad it worked for yo u!
Odd how we learn things; sure helps a lot with a guiding hand, but one adva ntage I have come to appreciate is the amount of opportunity I have to see what works and what doesn't.
For example in this instance, I started shooting 18ga brads into sheet rock when I noticed during a demo that the brads didn't spall out the sheet roc k. Never thought to check it out, just put the brads into some flimsy trim s to hold them in place until the adhesive stuck. The trim was flimsy, syn thetic material that was hard to fill but conformed well to the walls.
Kinda like the old mdf trims.
Then when pulling apart the work of others, I noticed that tearing into dif ferent construction details that were poorly executed, the caulk (laughingl y) seemed to "hold the whole mess all together". Hmmm....
Didn't always have a tube of adhesive, but always seem to have a tube of pa inter's caulk. Then I noticed on a tube of caulk one day it said "sealer a nd adhesive". Hmmm....
Easy enough to take a piece of sheet rock, glue it, then shoot a couple of brads into it, then try to take it apart. A new procedure for me was born. It was almost impossible to take the trim off my experimental piece of sh eet rock without literally tearing up the assembly. Another aspect was that when I put up chair rail and other trims, caulking along the top seam of t rim to rock, it introduced even more hidden adhesive into the joint. So in a way, a piece of trim that didn't conform to the wall exactly was ensured to stay put as the gap received even more caulk/adhesive when the painters came behind to seal up the gaps.
So now I have inexpensive trim that conforms to imperfect walls, cheap adhe sive that holds well (think about it, you can put the caulk as an adhesive onto a painted surface with excellent adhesion)and is available everywhere, and the tiny little 18 ga holes (as opposed to my contemporaries that used screws after searching for studs/sole plates) were easy to fill, and the t rim when up more than twice the speed. I //avoid// the sheet metal, not loo k for it!
Anyway, glad it worked out for you. That is on old trick of mine, and you q uestion came up when I had a few hundred feet of trim I was installing in a n office finish out using that exact method. Seemed like I was intended to reply. Glad to be of help!
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