Speaking of which, on the left side, lower unit, just below the middle
shelf and just below the third from bottom shelf the back appears to be
lit up. Is there a opening at the back of the shelves to let light
shine through or is that just a reflection off the books that are laying
Excellent! And finally affordable.
I have been looking at some under counter remote controlled LED units,
5 LED's per unit and battery operated. at Sam's Club. Inexpensive and
by GE but the price sounded too good to be true. Probably old
technology with poor performance.
I guess that's open to interpretation. Between 12v power supply,
on/off switch, connectors, wire, optional dimmer and wireless remote,
I can see the price increasing dramatically. In fact, the LED lighting
is probably the cheapest part.
But, all the options are there for whatever application one has in
mind and I guess that's the important thing.
SFWIW, recently saw a ceiling fan installation that used a remote to
start/stop the fan and in addition, turn on/off the ceiling light.
This was an installation in a condo that was in the midst of an
so assume the fan was not the latest/greatest, but I could see some
possibilities, especially as an add on where there was no existing
power in an existing ceiling.
I wanted one of those about 8 years ago when I replaced our original to the
house living room fan that I added a light and pull chain to 30 years ago.
The remote would have made operation much easier. My wife vetoed as we had
enough remotes. Apparently you can have too many and I was not aware of
So if the fan was off and so too was the light and you wanted one on but
not the other it typically went like this.. Walk oner to turn on one or the
other. Nothing, walk over to the single control wall switch and turn it
on.. The fan or the light now comes on but not the one that you wanted on.
Walk back to the fan and pull two chains to turn the one you wanted on and
to turn the one you did not want on back off.
With the remote leave the wall switch on, don't get up to remotely turn on
or off what you want..
As for the LED lights and remote dimmer, we want to add under cabinet
lighting in our relatively new kitchen. I figure a total of 12' of
lighting in two areas. We don't want the wiring to show, and want all the
lights to come on with a single switch. I figure transformers and remote
receivers to on top of the cabinets behind the crown. The remote
transmitter goes anywhere, no wires. I figure between $150 ~$200..
Three years ago we added two dimable five LED manual lamp units to the
light bridge over our bed. Fantastic white to warm, not blue, reading
We should be able to get about 100 dimable LED under cabinet lights
remotely controlled for about the same amount.
That's where a good multifunction and learning remote comes in. Mine has
up to 10 functions, but if your remote only has two or three buttons
there's no reason you can't "teach" it codes from different devices.
When asked what that remote controls, I just say "everything". It's true,
but the looks I get on those rare occasions are neat.
Been there and done that, have an old Yamaha remote that does a lot, a
Universal Brand that does a lot but it seems that there is always a
single often used function that does not transfer well to the smart
remote. Like changing the sound field that uses 10 buttons on the
Yamaha remote or oddly enough the input for the TV that does not
transfer well. So I still have each of the standard remotes on hand as
The unit I was describing consisted of a remote and a holster to hold
The holster gets mounted on a wall at switch level.
You operate it just like a hard wired switch, so there is really
NO remote function in the normal sense.
On Friday, February 15, 2013 12:42:27 AM UTC-8, email@example.com wrote:
Yes, my design. I did lots of web surfing to find design elements I wanted.
It was my first major effort in Sketchup. I detailed out every piece so I
could build them modular in the shop and be sure it would all piece togethe
r in the house. I had my buddy cut the arch piece on his CNC.
On the finish, I used BIN primer and sanded it out and did all the caulking
. Then I had a pro paint it because with my tests spraying laytex with my c
heap HVLP were not up to the standards I wanted.
One key for me was I used the ply with MDF faces for all the boxes and mdf
for the door flat panels and it really provides a nice super flat substrate
for the painting.
Yes indeed. In my case (pun intended) the FF hides all edges of the boxes and
for the deck I wrapped it with 2" of hard edge (poplar) but the BIN did
fill\hide the seam and after painting you can't find it.
I guess that might depend on the topcoat? Maybe not.
I find it's very hard to hide edge banding seems... after they've gone
through a seasonal change. I guess that also might depend on the area's
I suppose if the BIN is hard enough, it would crack with
expansion/contraction. Maybe a latex over top would stretch with the
wood? Just thinking out loud. Any answers?
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
I've been through one full set of seasons in northern California since final
paint. We don't get much change here so probably helps. No cracks for sure but
not sure if it shows more or less at various humidities. Haven't looked to close
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.