I don't have a drawing of the desktop, but assume that one can drill
Alternately, I've used a bit of sheet metal with threaded holes and a
machine screw from the other side.
Particle board just isn't that good a material for wood screws and the
He's fastening a keyboard drawer to the bottom of a desktop. That
typically means that he needs four fasteners, two near the edge and two
6-12 inches from the edge. Are you proposing that he manage somehow to
drill a straight 12-inch deep hole into an existing particle board
desktop from the edge, so as to put in the cross-dowel? If not, then
what are you proposing?
And if he objects to fasteners showing on the top of the desk, do you
really thing that holes drilled in the edge are going to be any more
I did... but was thinking about trying to keep the overall thickness close
to the same. It would be fairly easy to take a piece of wood and glue it
(epoxy or whatever you like) to the bottom of the desk top. Lots of glue
surface area, especially if the pieces are flat.
On Tuesday, July 14, 2015 at 4:26:02 PM UTC-4, Puckdropper at dot wrote:
Actually, it would be even better if the flat pieces were roughed up/groove
d to give the epoxy something the bite into. A Dremel with a reinforced cut
off wheel or saw blade would make quick work of randomly placed angled groo
ves in both the wood and particle board (boad?) to lock both pieces togethe
Another suggestion that I don't think I've seen would be to bore some holes
in the p-board and epoxy nuts into the bottom, then use bolts through the
brackets. Once again, a Dremel could be used to rough up the sides of the n
uts as well as the sides of the holes to give the epoxy some bite.
On Tuesday, July 14, 2015 at 1:07:00 PM UTC-4, krw wrote:
I'm not sure why you think there is confusion. On July 11th he said:
"One leg of the "C"-bracket is screwed into the bottom of a pull-out keyboard shelf. The other leg of the bracket is screwed into the bottom of the desk top. The shelf and the desk top are each 3/4"-inch thick.
The screws cannot go all the way through the shelf or the desktop. "
Cross dowels (with connector bolts) are used to make strong joints when two pieces of wood are joined at a right angle.
But I need a way to attach a bracket to the face of a particle board so the screws don't pull out of the particle board.
On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 3:37:28 PM UTC-4, gary wrote:
New holes or the existing (and probably) larger holes from the original euro screws?
If you used the original holes without any filler, I'm not at all surprised that they pulled out.
BTW, you could use elevator bolts flush mounted through the top and call it a "design feature". ;-)
This one is silver, but they come in black and bronze colors also:
I drilled new holes for the sheet metal screws. The sheet metal screws were the size of the holes in the bracket.
Re: Elevator bolts: I don't want to drill the holes all the way through the particle board.
The screws pulled out of the particle board when I was typing (not when sliding the keyboard shelf in and out).
Don't predrill, just put the screw in. Sheet metal screws usually have
pretty decent heads, so they're easy to start with the appropriate
screwdriver. (If you're using Phillips head screws, make sure you have the
right size. It will likely be a #2. To check, put the screw on the driver
and try to wiggle it around. If it moves easily, the driver is too small.)
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