I have installed a new toilet, well actually replaced one and moved the
better one to my ensuite.
The plumber thought I was doing ceramics and put a 3/4" plywood under the
I thickened the floor with 1/2" plywood and sheet gooded the area. Now the
toilet sits about 1/8" off the floor and can rock. I am afraid to tighten
the bolts down any further for fear of breaking the porcelain commode.
My thoughts are too drive a few cedar wedges at strategic balance points and
then silicone caulk the whole thing around the edges. One problem may be
floating vinyl sheet goods.
Anybody else resolved this issue in a better fashion?.
Do you caulk yout toilets to the floor typically?
Have your accounts been removed by other's complaints?
Do you like to force your opinions on others?
I have used cedar shims on uneven floors. Then I will use matching grout
caulk if tiled. This is only when uneven. Typically if I do the tiling that
does not happen. If the toilet sits flat I don't caulk, don't see a need to.
You can usually tighten the bolts tighter then you think. I've installed
probably a hundred and never cracked one yet. Tomorrow will probably be the
first, hahaha. But if the floor is that uneven no matter how much you
tighten don't think it will keep the toilet from rocking.
It sounds like your wax gasket has been squeezed
completely out, and the toilet is pressing on the
flange. You must correct that, or the seal won't
It'll take something under the periphery of the toilet
foot, that lifts it 1/2 inch or more, and that is tough
enough to take the stress. Not caulk. Maybe
make a template and cut a plywood plate, or
build up a pedestal of mortar? Close to
ideal would be a couple of thicknesses of
concrete backer board (strong, ready for
stress immediately on assembly).
The toilet pedestal takes the weight to the floor.
The wax ring to the flange only seals against
gasses, you do NOT want it to be the support.
Caulk after it's in, but only as a seal for floor-mopping.
If the floor is uneven, some kinds of fiber-cement
concoctions can be useful.
To elaborate on that thought, I usually lacquer the underside rim of the
john, set it, shim as necessary with three narrow wedges and run mortar or
thinset under the rest of the bottom. When the mortar is hard I pull the
wedges and mortar where they were. The lacquer - wax works too - helps
release from the mortar if you have to ever take the john up again.
The response that told you the SEAL should not take the weight is
If the PLUMBER raised the FLANGE three quarter inches above the rest
of the floor - you have a problem.
That flange is supposed to be level (or slightly below) with the
finished floor. If your commode is restin on the flange you need to
raise it up, not just caulk or fill the gap!
You could cut (out of cement tile backer board, say) a shape to match
that of the commode "footprint" - and cut a hole in that to match the
flange. Then cement this shape to the sub-floor and rest the commode
on it and fasten with the flange bolts. Key is to get the surface
even, or slightly above, the commode flange so that the surrounding
surface, not the flange, takes the weight.
PS Grouting a commode to a tile floor will insure against re-cycling
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