OT: Separate hot and cold valves on kitchen taps save energy.

Dunno, I don't seem to have trouble moving the lever to the right. One of the men's room faucets at work is backwards, though. It's marked backwards, too, so maybe it's an intelligence test. ;-)

It doesn't sit in a largish tank at just the right temperature to grow things, though. ...one reason to not lower the temperature of the water heater.

Not totaly true, my tank has galvanized nipples that goto the tank. They had plastic inserts, that I did not understand at the time and removed thinking they were protective plugs. They are to keep the water from the leaded galvanized pipe.

They are glued in, and I could not remove the nipples, even with heat.

My old water tank had galvanized nipples too, w/o the plastic inserts. I guess before they realized that. So hot water is not always the same as cold.

Not totally true, my tank has galvanized nipples that goto the tank. They had plastic inserts, that I did not understand at the time and removed thinking they were protective plugs. They are to keep the water from the leaded galvanized pipe.

They are glued in, and I could not remove the nipples, even with heat.

My old water tank had galvanized nipples too, w/o the plastic inserts. I guess before they realized that. So hot water is not always the same as cold.

There is no lead in galvanized steel pipe. Just steel and zinc.

Fridge idea didn't work for me. It was 7 years before any water came out of it. ;)

Yeah, it's kind of a non-issue isn't it? All the newer single ball valves I've seen allow for turning to the cold water input hole without passing over the hot water hole. I think some older ones may have had a different design. But even then, as you say, it takes a millisecond to passover it.

krw wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Good point. 120F is the standard temperature for good reason, set it there and leave it. Not only does it kill off most nasties in the water, but it also gives a pretty decent run time when you fill the tub or take a shower.

Some fools turned my aunt's water heater way down, it was probably 80-

I was more concerned with the lack of hot water and didn't think about the nasties until later. WH's back up to standard, things are safer and working like they should.

Puckdropper

In my opinion, 120 is too low. You can prevent scalding with the proper shower valve though. I just turn it to full on and the temperature is fine.

-MIKE- wrote in news:n8lk72$9ge$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

It's kinda hard to tell if Robatoy's original post was tongue in cheek or not. That's the one that snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com was agreeing with. Looks like the original post was "Sun, 5 Jun 2011 09:20:59 -0700 (PDT)"

I looked up the archive... Haven't seen Han or Joe Autodrill around here in far too long or a bunch of the other guys who made this a fun discussion.

Use either link:

Puckdropper

Glad you mentioned this, one thing is consistent in what you described that is not true about HW heaters, that is that everything you described is open to the air. Most use the same chemicals for water treatment which some humans like myself are allergic to in the first place. Cooling tower chemicals have changed in most places to different chemicals to help eliminate the problem.

The only thing in a HW heater that might present a problem is a zinc anode, and many new HW heaters are glass coated to eliminate erosion and do not use Zinc.

The plastic insulates, as it was explained to me by a plumber, are to prevent electrolysis and premature failure.

Galvanic corrosion is caused by two or more dissimilar metals coming into contact with water. When this occurs, one of the metals becomes an anode and corrodes faster than it would all by itself, and the other metal becomes a cathode and corrodes slower than it would by itself. The copper supply line is the cathode and the galvanized nipple is the anode.

A dielectric nipple prevents the two dissimilar metals from contacting each other where water is present because the nipple is encased in plastic. The plastic is not only on the inside of the nipple but also extends past the end of the nipples. One of the side benefits of using dielectric nipples is that you seldom have leaks because the plastic ends act as washers and compress against the seat as the nipple is tightened.

Yet Legionella is found in closed water heating systems.

And don't mix above the plastic iron and copper. It will cause ionic current and ions. They get to the tanks with / without plastic barrier.

Happened on two heaters here. Lasted almost 10 years and the iron adapter (shade tree owner plumber before me) in both. I had replacements and the pipes cleaned up and replaced where needed. No iron. Plastic outside and copper inside.

Mart> >>> wrote:

I have never heard that to be the case, if it was then the disease would be consistently high across the nation since you cannot treat it there.

Yes, if you have a recirc system or in the normal home if you let the water run unmixed, otherwise the Dishwasher would never see it. Usually the only time you see it is in restaurants for the kitchen area's. My home was set that way for years, but we had mixing valves at every sink. It is a real problem when one has two separate valves, one hot, the other cold and it has to mix in the sink. I don't know that it would ever be a viable option in that case.

yes, it is true. And for Woodchucker, electrolysis also takes place on cold lines with dissimilar metals, like galv pipe hooked directly to copper piping without a coupling designed for that purpose.

This is what has been used for decades before the "nipple"