OT: Ooops! Now What?

[Casper]

So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to be easy so I am looking for suggestions...

In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.

I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw. I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface? `Casper

[Scott Lurndal]

Use a sanding block with 220 aluminum oxide paper, lube with light oil, plenty of elbow grease.

[-MIKE-]

WD-40 and steel wool or any other old-school techniques are time burning distractions. Rustfree is fast and easy. I've tried all the different products and techniques and this is by far the most efficient.

[Lew Hodgett]

------------------------------------------------------ Talk to Kano Labs in Nashville, TN.

1-800-311-3374.

They have several products that deal with rust.

Kroil is a winner for freeing up rusted parts that are frozen together.

Lew

[Leon]

If there is pitting, that is permanent.

To clean up next to like new and to further protect I find that his product does a very good job.

[Leon]

[-MIKE-]

I didn't read anything abut pitting.

[dpb]

Just polish it out--I use 400 wet/dry paper w/ any lubricant--even water is fine for the lubricant...just dry afterwards. Unless the can isn't handy my general first choice is K-1 followed by WD40 since there's almost always some around, but it really matters very little for such superficial rust.

Once back to clean surface then one of the surface protectant products is ok altho probably not really needed unless your shop is so damp that you're getting spontaneous rust besides for some reason as the above...

It's very dry here so I don't worry about anything more than a coat of old Johnson's paste wax once in a while to keep things "slicked up". The old barn isn't terribly tight so occasionally after a driving wind and snow/rain there's some water so it's a pretty routine operation. If I were anal about pristine appearances (a few stains make no difference whatever as to performance; if anything they're "character" :) ) I'd cover stuff. If I know there's a bad'un coming and think of it I do try to cover them but don't always get one of those round tuits ahead of time w/ all the other stuff that generally needs doing on a farm before...

So, in a long-winded sorta' way I'm trying to say the world has not gone a-kilter just for a little surface rusting on a tool table... :)

--

[Casper]

Yeah, and hard on my bad elbow. I did it this way when I first got it (used) and cleaned the surface till shiney and waxed it. Now I feel dumb for letting it get away from me.

I've used Evaporust with great success but that needs to soak and I'm not sure I can do that without taking the table apart, which I'd rather not do. I haven't tried Rustfree ... yet.

[Casper]

I have an old can of WD40 that won't hold a straw, so I figured I'd use it on this. Don't care if I use it up.

Dry in winter here, damp in summer, but it's in the house, so climate controlled.

Last time I used renaissance wax and it works great, on everything I've used it, including cleaning up a few swords for a friend who forgot they were metal and, well, you know.

Sadly, it's more than a little and I need the surface to be smooth to cut larger pieces w/o dragging or getting caught.

[Lee Michaels]

"Casper" wrote

Have you seen the new cans of WD40?

I had an Ace Hardware Card recently and needed some WD40. The new WD40 cans have an attached straw. You put it down, it sprays. You lift it up, it shoots out the straw. It is all built in. You don't lose anything. I think it is quite clever.

By the way, another use for WD40. If you get mineral stains in your toilet, put some WD40 in the water and let it soak for awhile. Then scrub with a stiff, nylon brush. The problem is finding a brush that will fit into the small confines of the toilet bowl. I tried it recently on 5 separate toilet bowls. I had brushes to remove 3/4 of the stains. Looking for a short bristle brush that will fit into the small spaces. Then they will all become sparkling clean!

[Leon]

LOL My NEW can of WD 40 is about 6 years old. I did not need any at the time but the NEW delivery set up was cool!

[Swingman]

Likewise on the time frame ... the gallon I bought six years ago is about 3/4 full.

[-MIKE-]

It's pretty effortless. Whatever phosphoric acid does to rust, it's fast. You will want to clean up the rustfree with soap and water, however.... and that means you will also want to follow up with a protectant.

[Swingman]

Also great for cleaning stainless steel appliances.

[Leon]

BUT! did your gallon can have the flip up and flip down straw? The regular sized can that I bought 6 years ago had the flip straw set up. ;~)

[Swingman]

I don't use WD40 often. But when I do, I pour it. ;)

[Doug Miller]

-MIKE- wrote in news:kerp6t$5b6$ [e-mail]:

I did -- but I had to "read between the lines" to see it:

"In December ... I laid it ... on top of my scrollsaw ... I picked it up last night...."

If green wood has been sitting on an iron or steel table for one to two months, that table's pitted.

[Leon]

LOL, OK I'll do one even better. Way back in the very early 80's, probably 1980 I bought a case of 16 oz cans of WD40 for $1 per can from one of my vendors. Hell I probably saved $6. I was about 25 and WD40 was still the miracle fixer upper product much like duck tape is today. I was still living in an apartment at the time so the case went to dad's house. When we cleaned out his house to sell it early last year I think there were 3 cans left in the case.

[Leon]

Not to mention the pleasant aroma that lingers in the house.

Great for removing smashed bugs from the exterior of your car.