Leon wrote in news:Q6Gdnbl snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
I use it to remove tractor grease from my hands. The soap won't touch it, but the WD40 gets it off and then the soap gets the WD40.
Puckdropper
Also remove stains from your fingers when the POS chinese nitrile gloves from Rockler tear when you look at them.
-------------------------------------------- "Doug Miller" wrote:
-------------------------------------- Yep.
In which case, shoot WD-40 to float the sworf away when you sand out the top with a ROS starting with 150 grit.
Finish by wiping with WD-40 and paper towels.
Finally, apply one of the top finishes such as BoeShield.
Yes you will have some pit marks showing, but they will strictly be cosmetic and have no effect on function.
And alternate would be one of the phosphoric acid based cleaners which require a neutralizer wash of water base.
You end up with a black surface where rust once was. No biggie unless vanity is an issue.
Lew
----------------------------------- Next time try Go-Jo.
Been using it for probably 50-60 years.
It's been so long I forgot when I first used it.
They started in Akron, OH, don't know if they are still there.
Auto parts stores like Pep Boys have it.
Lew
Sand it . works from 220 dry paper on up to 600 wet /dry, with mineral spirits.
I never get a black surface from Rustfree, which is phosphoric acid based.
So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw. I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface? `Casper ========================================================================================================== Rust is red. WD-40 and steel wool will remove that in seconds. Rust staining is black. It is totally harmless and is no more than color. If you want to get back to shiny, an abrasive is called for. Start sanding on your table and hope that you don't sand it out of flat. I would remove the rust and be happy.
Puckdropper wrote in news:51118fc0$0$31896$c3e8da3 $ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:
Try Fast Orange next time. Rub it in without water, until the grease is thoroughly loosened up, then wash it off.
Swingman wrote in news:wdqdnaAVeMhYCYzMnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
The nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight (made in Malaysia, usually) are pretty durable, really.
Thanks for the heads up ... running low and need to resupply soon. My favorites, until they quit carrying them, were Members Mark, Sam's Club brand. I don't know if I just go a bad lot from Rockler, or whether they're just shoddy ... they also stick together badly in the box.
----------------------------------- Go to a safety supply house and check their glove stock.
It all comes from SE Asia.
Lew
----------------------------------------- Find a safety supply house and get some "Canners gloves".
Yellow, cuff above wrist. About $7-$9/doz pairs.
I used hundreds of them laying up the hull.
Lew
There are a few different weight gloves at harbor freight. Pick the MIL that fits your need.
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Actually Empire Top Saver Sill bring it back to shiney with out anything more than the ScotchBrite pad that comes with the product.
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Actually Empire Top Saver Sill bring it back to shiney with out anything more than the ScotchBrite pad that comes with the product. ========================================================================================================= True, there are chemicals out there that will remove the stain but it seems that it is often recommended (by some on this group, among others) to sand it out, something that I would not do. I would not worry about a stain either as long as the surface is smooth. This comes from a career in a machine shop. Looks are of no concern, accuracy is.
woodchucker wrote in news:DIudnV3UfKbBT4zMnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@ptd.net:
I've just been using the cheap ones, not the heavy-duty gloves -- haven't seen the need for it.
I think the HD gloves work better for me when putting them on. They don't tear so easily..
Yeah... not terribly different from when people sand out defects on things like table tops without sanding the entire surface to the same plane. Considering how relatively soft cast iron is it's not hard to "unflatten" it by focusing on just the stained area. I saw an example of that in the recent past... the guy cleaned up the surface of an old 4" jointer with a belt sander!
John
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This is woodworking and OP's talking about the table on a scrollsaw, not even a TS or a jointer, for heaven's sake.
He's not going to remove enough material w/ a 200+ grit to get to a clean surface (ignoring staining, of course, as I already mentioned earlier) to possibly matter...a fraction of or a mil will be impossible to discern in functionality (as would several mils in reality on a scrollsaw). Getting a jointer table severely out of whack is a different animal, of course...
Precision is good but folks tend to get way over-paranoid on tolerances w/ woodworking--heck, the wood itself will move more than you're talking about here just from the time you mill it before it's assembled not to mention how far it will then go when glue is applied and it soaks up that moisture.
--
Where do you get yours?
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