OT: Ooops! Now What?

[Leon]

Originally from Lee Valley. I don't recall if I cared for them or not. Then I bought a new set on your recommendation from Sam's Club. IIRC I have torn both brands.

Typically I tear them when pulling them on for the first time. If they last past that I can reuse them.

Now an off note. I have on occasion scrubbed through the finger of both brands while applying and or removing gel stains.

Yesterday I applied an old 25+ year old oil stain to an old desk top. Way back when, I took a stain class at a bare wood furniture store. They recommended and I again used a chunk of "pantyhose" for applying the stain.

The panty hose holds but readily releases the stain from the wad. Basically most all of it comes out, not as much waste and easy to apply. And it does not absorb the pigment like towels or t-shirts will. Basically it was effortless applying the oil stain. I wiped off the still wet excess half way through with a blue Scotts shop towel and with a new Scotts shop towel wiped the area again. Great results.

[John Grossbohlin]

To put things ever further into perspective... many of the machines the Shakers used had wooden tables on them... table saws, table saws with sliding tables, cut off saws, thickness planers, reciprocating saws, shapers (a tongue and groove machine comes to mind), and others would be included in the list. It would be fair to say those tools too moved around with changes in humidity and it would be difficult to argue that their products were negatively impacted by the movement.

John

[scritch]

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In fact, it's that black oxidation/staining that eventually gives old iron tools that beautiful patina.

[John Grossbohlin]

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Which suggests that maybe the solution to the cosmetic problem is to use something like Birchwood Casey gun browning solution... intentionally brown the surface and let regular use burnish the areas that actually get used. ;~)

[<address_is]

I kept ihitting it with WD40 and a green scour pad but not much came off. Next day, after a few more applications of WD40 soaked into a paper towel, i used a coarse grit Norton sanding block. All rust gone and no pitting! You can see a very faint outline if you look at it from a low side angle but cannot see it otherwise. Good enough for me. Hit it all over with a little more WD (damn can spout works when it wants and can is at least still 65% full) and tomorrow I will wax it.

Thanks for all the tips. I think I will still look into some of the suggested alternatives for other projects. I enjoy finding the occasional old tool and cleaning it up. I keep hoping to find a good but cheap table belt sander. Maybe this summer.

I can't remember when I bought this WD can, but it's been years. It's a large one and works but only at a low angle and clean spray head. Since I can't find a replacement straw to fit it, I may end up donating it to my mechanic.

Thanks all... 'Casper

[Puckdropper]

"Mike Marlow" wrote in news:kev1ka$nn1$ [e-mail]:

Forget the spray cans. If you're going to use WD40, buy it in the gallon tin and use a sprayer. Sure, it's not as direct as the spray can, but you don't wind up wasting what's left when the propellant is gone.

Puckdropper

[Larry Jaques]

Har! I doubt that anyone here has ever thrown away a full depressurized can of anything. We're an inventive lot and would have found several ways to save and use the contents.

Does anyone here NOT have a church key? (I didn't think not. ;)

-- Newman's First Law: It is useless to put on your brakes when you're upside down. --Paul Newman

[Leon]

All true but they were building simple furniture..

[Larry Kraus]

I hold a rubber tipped blow gun on my air line pressed into the nozzle of the upside down can. Press down(up) the nozzle while releasing air through the blow gun to re pressurize the can. I do not know if my usual 100psi line pressure might blow up the can, so I only give it a quick blast or two. If it's not enough I can always add more later.

[Casper]

I don't use WD40 much, ergo why my can is so old. I use Ballistol...

which I find to be a better lubricant, rust protectant and bio safe. Sadly it is getting harder to find. I use it on everything except where I need to remove rust.

I have tons of straws around here and not a one will fit this can. I've been through this same conversation with several people, all believing they had a straw to fit, and found out none do. Don't know what the company did with this can, but it sucks.

[Casper]

True.

I barely took off anything and when the rusted area was almost down to the level of the rest of the surface, I sanded the entire surface. I got this unit second hand but it's in great, almost new, shape. I doubt the miniscule amount of metal I sanded off will ever make a difference. Now I just have to remember never to oops again.

I get a lot of this from some people. I wanted to make a custom rest for my lathe for some special projects and was telling my neighbor about it. He kept insisting I would have to have it made in a machine shop due to tight tolerances. I tried to explain to him this is a wood lathe and not a metal lathe but he refused to get the idea until the rest was made and he saw how it worked. He never said another word about tolerances after.

[Larry Jaques]

Hmm, that might unsludge a gucked up pickup tube, too, wouldn't it? I'll have to try that some time.

-- Newman's First Law: It is useless to put on your brakes when you're upside down. --Paul Newman

[Mike M]

I've had good luck with Woodcraft's Radnor brand.

Mike M

[Larry W]

If there's any significant quantify of product left but no propellant, take a small punch or nail and poke a hole in the can near the bottom, then pour the product into a pump sprayer or oil can.