What I did (and my son in law recently did the same) was lay down the
heating grid on the subfloor where I wanted it in the bathroom and then
- as directed in the installation instructions mixed up and poured
sufficient self-leveling "concrete" to cover it evenly.
You remove the toilet, etc. and mask or dam around the drain as well as
along the tub (assuming standard vs. claw foot or something special) and
use a bit of lath trimmed to fit on the door threshold(s).
Mix and pour the concrete quickly and stand back. It sets up very
quickly and provides you with a nice solid, level base for the thin set
and tile. Your bathroom floor will be all one level when you're done.
I wound up with a differential of maybe 3/8" between the tile floor of
the bathroom and the wood floor of the adjoining hallway. This was
solved by my "machining" a 1 piece solid oak threshold and staining it
to match the floor.
My heated floor has been in place for ~ 8 years now and it looks as good
as it did the day I finished it.
On Sunday, March 24, 2019 at 12:10:41 PM UTC-5, Unquestionably Confused wro
question is how to deal with the difference between sections of the floor w
ith the heat mat, and sections that don't have the heat mat. What is the ap
propriate way to install with the 1/8 height difference?
Thanks! That sounds like the best solution, although one of the floors we w
ill tile will be the entire living room and we won't be heating it all, jus
t the places where we walk. That's a lot of concrete to do the entire floor
. But it may have to be that way.
Hmmm. Not sure that I would use heating mat/grid normally designed for
a bath area in a living room, but whatever.
How about figuring out a good way to bond /8" or 1/4" plywood to the
subfloor with your "heated walking path" left "as is." Use the self
leveling compound as previously described and just a hair shallower
maybe than the other area. Any slight difference in the heated area can
be made up with a touch more thin set mortar.
You don't want to have to do that...are the two areas adjacent with what
is going to be a continuous tile for both areas? If not, as UC says,
just make a transition between the two at the doorway.
If it is and the present subfloors are consistent, the alternative to
raising both is to remove the needed amount to set the heating grid
flush. If sizable mat, just cut out the area and reset it with needed
thickness material, for smaller areas can just remove material.
Your suggestion MIGHT work, depending upon the type of heating mesh
installed. Most that I have seen (and certainly what I and my
son-in-law installed) required the coating of self-leveling goop
(technical term ;) ) for the installation.
On 3/25/2019 11:01 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
It _DOES_ work; "flush" in this context is the finished installation per
I've done same twice't...worked just "spiffy keen!" and kept from
redoing any other existing flooring when retrofitting.
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