I'm building 2x4 boxes to attach to joists for subfloor support where the e dges aren't directly on a joist. I bought nails for my framing gun in the f ollowing size: 3" x .120". I took the nails out and they look a little on t he thin side. It may be no big deal, but I thought I would ask if this size nail is adequate for the job.
Thanks!
A flooring guy might suggest adding a layer of ply ? John T.
Yeah, that's only about a 10d dimension; I'd use at least a 12d and preferably a 16d.
Not visioning the box idea, though...to infill between joists for a nailing edge the idea? Why not use hangers instead?
he edges aren't directly on a joist. I bought nails for my framing gun in t he following size: 3" x .120". I took the nails out and they look a little on the thin side. It may be no big deal, but I thought I would ask if this size nail is adequate for the job.
Thanks, DPB. Something like this.
I would not trust the advice of anybody who refers to a joist as a "stud" unless I knew them really well.
edges aren't directly on a joist. I bought nails for my framing gun in the following size: 3" x .120". I took the nails out and they look a little on the thin side. It may be no big deal, but I thought I would ask if this si ze nail is adequate for the job.
Another question. After installing the 3/4" OSB subfloor, should I install
1/4" or 1/2" hardi board? I've heard it both ways. Also, is hardie the best option?3/4" OSB subfloor? On what centers? 1 1/4" T&G Plywood or 2x6 T&G DF are common around this neck of the woods.
For tile I would never use OSB (nothing but FIR plywood for me 0 none of the crappy "SPF" or poplar crap) and I would use (and have used) the Schlueter system - DITRA - instead of Hardi-Board. It is an excellent decoupling system that prevents tile cracking due to expoansion and contraction of the subfloor. Not cheap, but nor is replacing a damaged tile floor. The Europeans have been using it for years - and it was recommended to me by several "high end" tile installers as THE way to go.
3/4 inch douglas fir ply on 12 or 16 inch centers (depending on span and joist dimensions) is considered adequate here. If you have 5/8", glue and screw 3/8 on top - again - DF Ply -. Screw the subfloorto the joists about every foot and make sure the joists are properly cross braced to prevent flexing. Thicker never hurt, and T&G is ALWAYS a plus. Reduce motion any way you can -and then use a decoupling membrane. Using a "wet set" is virtually a thing of the past (thick mud base) - way more weight than desired.
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