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OT Drywall hanging

ohhhhh. But what about all those special fasteners. LOL

Reply to
Leon
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This is something we definitely will not have to worry about We are about 80' above a creek that runs through a swamp that is over a half mile wide. It we get flooded, many people will be looking for the dove.

Reply to
knuttle

I wouls NEVER nail drywall. Screws can cause pops too, but nails WILL pop. Guaranteed. ANd for plywood osing PROPER screws is better than nailing - even if proper hot galvanized ardox nails are used.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Yo mean the ones that need a mixture of vofka and orange juice to remove???

You're SCREWED

Reply to
Clare Snyder

I don't know your particular situation but never say never. 4 years ago hurricane Harvey then tropical storm Harvey brought 50+ inches of rain in a 3 day period to the Houston metro area.

While you may be 80' above a creek, that is no guarantee. Although I would feel safe. Our home is 65 miles from the gulf coast. Our home is approximately 98' above sea level. 3 times our street filled with water during the heaviest rains on the 3rd day. Streets were pretty much flooded all the way to the coast.

The probability of flooding is all dependent on how much rain or draining water from other areas that you get and how fast it can drain. It took 2 weeks for parts of Houston to fully drain.

Best bet is to look at water shed maps for your area.

Reply to
Leon

I'm in a similar situation. Roughly 80' almost straight down to the bay on the east and that same 80' over about a mile to the lake to the north. It's also down hill to the south and west.

One year we got a letter from our mortgage holder informing us that we were in a FEMA flood zone and that if we didn't buy our own flood insurance, they were authorized to buy it for us.

When I called and started using words like "biblical proportions", they did a little research and told me that I could ignore the letter. It turns out that someone made a minor programming error which caused the letter to be sent to every single one of their mortgagees.

The part that I still wonder about is the fact that it took them 3 months to send a "retraction" to those of us that received the letter in error. I often wonder how many people believed the letter and purchased flood insurance during those 3 months. I would hope that the ins co's would tell people that they weren't in a FEMA flood zone and didn't sell them the unnecessary insurance.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Putting the 2' piece at the bottom (or top for that matter) leaves you with the sheets joining at tapered edges... a flat joint. Prefill the joint with hot mud (setting joint compound) then tape and top coat with at least two coats. Done well you will not see the joints as they will appear flat. By pre-filling the gap between panels with hot mud the panels will act as one piece of drywall and you should not get a bulge or crack over time. The down side of putting the cut edge at the ceiling is you don't have a straight factory edge butted against the ceiling... In which case you might not get as crisp of a corner as a result. Pre-fill the irregularities with hot mud either way!

If you put the 2' piece in the middle you will have one edge that is not tapered. That results in what is essentially a butt joint. A butt joint needs to be floated out a significant distance to hide it.... 2-2 1/2 feet is not uncommon for a pro and most amateurs cannot do them well.

All that said, the OP is rocking his garage so none of this makes much difference! ;~)

Reply to
John Grossbohlin

Since the OP mentioned that some of the garage walls are already rocked I'm guessing it's the outside walls that need to be rocked. That would suggest that at least one of the walls could be 18-24' long. That makes avoiding butt joints by burying them in doorways a bit more iffy... Been there. ;~)

Reply to
John Grossbohlin

But that's not 65 miles tilted strait toward the coast. There are local minimums that will fill with water that has nowhere to go. Hell, I live 950' above sea level but I don't expect it to drain very fast (maybe 2-10 years ;-).

And the terrain. 80' on a bluff over a river would be relatively safe. A mile behind that, perhaps not so much.

Do they have your hurricane marked?

Reply to
krw

Even if done right, you will see the seam if you can look straight down a long wall. Over time, it will only get worse.

I managed to screw up the ceiling in my first house's garage. Well, I screwed it up but it was really screwed up too. ;-)

That was my excuse, "it's only a garage".

Reply to
krw

I cannot understand why so many people are talking about using 2 foot sections on this wall and whether to put it at the top or bottom. I think there are a lot of people who are very unfamiliar with drywall.

Drywall sheets come in thicknesses of 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 5/8". Drywall sheets come in lengths of 8', 9', 10', 12', 14', and I think you can even get 16' lengths too. Might have to go to a drywall supplier for these. Drywall sheets come in widths of 4', 4.5', and 5'.

Check the drywall section at Menards, Home Depot, Lowes online and you will find almost all of the sizes I mentioned above. You don't even have to go to a specialized drywall supplier. With all the sizes I listed above, all rooms from 8 to 10 feet high can be drywalled with two sheets stacked horizontal. And with sheets of 14' or I think 16', almost all walls can be covered with one long sheet from corner to corner. Or to make it easy to carry by one or two guys, use two 8' lengths with a seam in the middle. House construction companies and their supporting drywall makers are all about fast, cheap, easy. They have figured out long ago to build rooms in heights and lengths to standard sizes and to make drywall sheets the correct sizes to cover those walls quick and easy. Minimizing labor hours and cost to hang drywall.

Reply to
russellseaton1

In my experience, with wood framing the waviness of the wall will likely be more noticeable than a well hung and taped flat joint...

In new construction that is very common as the framing dries, twists, shrinks, bows, settles, etc., over time and it is telegraphed through the drywall.

Careful renovations are another story. This as the framing has generally normalized and you can make the walls flat and they will stay that way. I've used a scrub plane to remove the high spots and used shims to fill in the low spots in the field of the walls. In some cases I also used hot mud to flatten the framing out. The goal is to create the illusion of flatness in both the rocking and mudding...

After the rock was hung I've also did some "mud framing" on the surface of the drywall near the bottom. That was done so that the baseboards would be straight. Almost nothing looks worse to me in finish carpentry than baseboards with gaps between them and the wall... or wide globs of chalking.

I've also flattened the ceilings with shimmed furring strips...

Straight framing combined with well hung drywall, prefilling, and carefully taped joints can look just fine for decades... in a garage it will look perfect until the day the garage is cleared out to move!

Reply to
John Grossbohlin

What is available definitely depends on your local market. The local independents have a limited selection as do the local home depot and lowes. None stock 1/4" but some stores 20 miles away do. The only sizes they have in 1/2" are 4x8, 4x10 and 4x12. Other thicknesses, green board, and glass mat are only available in 4x8. The independents can order you about anything in full units with enough lead time. If you don't want a full unit there is a significant premium and you may wait a significant period of time to get it... if they can even get it. As such, back to the garage situation--4x12s along with tape and mud is the reasonable option based on my local market.

Years ago when there were housing developments being built around here there were more options... like 14' and 4.5' (I don't recall there being 5' but then I wasn't looking for it). That was 30-50 years ago when there was a major corporation in town that employed as many as 7,500 people. Now... it's a different supply and demand situation and we use what we can get easily and cheaply. The nearest specialty drywall supplier is about 55 miles north. Others are 90+ miles south. I'm certainly not going to travel 100-200 miles round trip to pick up a 6-12 sheets of 5' rock for a garage, nor would I want to pay for shipping it!

Reply to
John Grossbohlin

I just checked the drywall section on the Home Depot, Lowes & Menards websites. I scrolled around and also tried their size filters.

Home Depot: The only width they list is 4'. Lowe's: They list 4' and 4.5'. All three 4.5' products are Unavailable for on-line purchase or in-store pickup. Menards: They list 4' and 4.5'. The 4.5' appears to be available in 12' lengths only.

Maybe my search skills are fading. Do you have any links for the other sizes that these stores carry?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I've done that with floors and have thought about it for walls but thought I was being anal. I'm using MDF in one place behind my lathe and a few other tools. I figured it would hold up better and be easier to clean. Anyway, the first sheet I hung has a huge, ugly, wave in it. The stud is out at least a half-inch, maybe 3/4. I considered shimming out the stud(s) but I'd have to do the same on the other side. Perhaps it would be easier just to replace it (2x6 - all walls in the house are supporting), though others are out, too, but by smaller amounts.

Perfection is seldom seen. I guess, never, in my case.

Reply to
krw

"Available", yes, but I've only *seen* 4' wide sheetrock. I can't handle more than a 4x8 sheet by myself. So, 4x8 it is.

Not here! Lengths, yes. Widths? You can have any width you want as long as you want 48".

Reply to
krw

Oh, there is a sheetrock distributor about 1-1/2 miles from me. They bring it in on railroad cars and ship it out on flat bed trucks. I doubt they'd want to see my pickup around looking for three sheets of

4 1/2' sheetrock, not that it would fit.
Reply to
krw

Anal or not, that used to be a common step, called pickup framing, between the framing going up and the dry wall going up.

Reply to
Leon

On 10/7/2021 9:02 PM, snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote: Snip

What? Marked?

Reply to
Leon

I had an issue with my flood insurance going from $280 per year to $3500 per year. That was after the big flood fiasco caused by Katrina in NO. We had not connection.

Anyway satellite elevation maps showed that our home was in a more prone to flood location.

Soo I had an elevation survey performed and suddenly my insurance was lowered.

Reply to
Leon

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