Well, I did it. I was trying to install a riser in another Delta 14
inch bandsaw and I snapped the back pin in half. It was sliding out
of the holes when I failed to lift the top arm evenly and it just let
go. Does anyone have any proven suggestions for removing the broken
pieces? These are blind holes and those pins will not drill at all.
Thanks in advance for any insight provided.
This just popped into my head, so take it for what it's worth...
Get one of those cryo wart remover kits. ($20 - 30) Also a rare earth
magnet. (Free out of a junk hard drive) Heat up the area with the pin using
a torch. Heat as large an area as the torch will do, being careful to avoid
a sharp temperature gradient. (Don't want to crack the casting) Use the cryo
kit to quick-freeze the pin, then immediately pick it out with the magnet.
That seemed less goofy in my head. Still...
Incidentally, I have a Rigid riser block on my grey Jet BS. The pin holes
didn't line up, so I took the pins out. Hasn't been an issue. Actually, it
allowed me to correct a problem with non-coplanar wheels that I had had
before the riser block.
You could grind them (it) down flush and forget it's there. Or you
could drill a smaller hole from the other direction and push it out
with a pin punch/nail.
I left mine out completely to get enuff movement for tuning up the
wheels to coplaner.
An old auto mechanics trick is to tack a small bead on top of the
broken dowel, bolt, or whatever with the MIG welder. This assumes it
is not broken far down in the hole. After the bead cools a bit, add to
it and repeat until the build up is enough to grab with Visegrips.
Almost all of us have a friend with a MIG machine these days so it
might wprk for you. HTH
I've seen similar results by TIG welding a piece of key stock to the
broken pieces. The heat expands everything, then when it cools down,
the stuck piece usually comes out pretty easy. I've seen lots of
broken setscrews and taps taken out this way.
I am seeing my friend Ron the Welder on Saturday -whom I must say is
the best welder I have ever seen. One of the ideas we had is similar
to the above- take a length of flat stock with a pin sized hole in it
and weld to the pin through the hole, then try to work it out while
heating the base around the pin.
Louis Itturra (of Itturra Design echoed other comments about foregoing
the pin and aligning the wheels by hand so all is not lost.
Thanks for your suggestions and I'l let you know how it goes.
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