Yes, we all have learned how to "bend" the capabilities of equipment, but no
more than in computers and computer driven equipment.
All this brings back the first computer driven typesetter that I had
purchased. I managed to automate the typesetting of a 36pp booklet with
month calendars split over the binding. Today that is simple, but when you
have to code all the rules and dates in commands, and get it all to run on a
computer with 1k of memory available for the coding. It ran so slow that
each page took 45 minutes to output. We would start it up when we went home
and came in the morning to wait for it to finish, if there was a power
problem or thunderstorm overnight, we had to start from the start again. The
computer ran "core" memory, you could turn the power off and it would still
remember its programs. However a thunderstorm would scramble the program, so
you would have to reload from a paper tape.
I am glad after 39 years to be out of that business. The pressures of
juggling 100 or more deadlines simultaneously were killing me. Now I do
woodworking for a rest.
I use decimals more than 1/8 (etc) inch rulers. I find it easier to add
dimensions, divide into sections, etc. Buy yourself a decimal
straightedge and I bet you'll like using it.
Larry C in Auburn WA
I've used a lot of 3832 slides and IIRC, the first hole from the front
of the cabinet needs to be centered at 37mm, in order to provide the
proper setback of the slide. From there the rest of the holes should
follow a 32mm pattern to the back of the slide.
The last time I made a template, I printed out a CAD sheet with the
37mm hole and then 32mm spacing, spray adhesived to some 1/4" MDF,
centerpunched and drilled, and it worked fine.
I never bothered with the bracket kit and simply milled pieces to pack
out the sides to the inside edge of the face frame.
(Of course, my 32mm line borer is for sale - if you're going to be
doing a lot of these.)
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
The measurements I referred to are the hole spacing in the brackets to
center the bracket vertically in the opening. The brackets are indented to
index off the inside of the face frame to give the proper set back.
I'm retro-fitting some existing cabinets. They're are two drawer in each
cabinet. The unit is open across the full width, except for the face
frame. There is nothing inside the cabinet, between the drawers, to attach
Not if I can help it. I'm not particularly fond of doing retro's, but the
original cabinet construction is pretty good. The drawers were molded
plastic and have always sucked.
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
were the original drawer guides center undermounted? in any case
either type can be bracket mounted without screwing directly to the
side of the cabinet- although I prefer to directly mount them. it's a
more solid attachment.
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