I'm using some Accuride 3832 draw slides in a face framed cabinet.
Has anyone ever seen a ruler where inches are broken down to decimal? Smart thinking Accuride.
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
I'm using some Accuride 3832 draw slides in a face framed cabinet.
Has anyone ever seen a ruler where inches are broken down to decimal? Smart thinking Accuride.
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Yep. Got one with decimal, fraction and metric.
or you can try this.
decimal inches is standard for aircraft stuff.
Yes. I have several in lengths from 6" to 18". Smallest division is .010.
>
very common Starrete and mititoyo make very fine squares that run from 6 inch to 36 inch
Nova moved upon the face of the 'Net and spake thusly:
You have a metric part with original dimensions of 60mm and 30mm. The US importer has probably 'helpfully' converted these exact measurements into useless imperial values, and rounded them to boot.
Use a metric ruler.
Regards, Chris
Suppose it'd make more difference if:
Hell, it's 1 1/8 "fat" in my head
I have been using a tape measure for the last year or so in which the inches are broken down in decimals. I like it a lot. It makes a lot more sense to me.
Dick Durbin Tallahassee
This could revive the metric versus imperial thread. Ed
Christopher Biggs wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@gomiyama.unixbigot.id.au:
Quite likely. Or a part that was originally dimensioned in inches, converted to metric, and back to inches, with roundoff errors creeping in along the way. We have a lot of that where I work, thanks to an enthusiasm to convert to metric some years ago followed by an enthusiasm for a new inventory database that wanted everything in imperial units(*).
John
(* we used to measure linear stuff in inches, which worked well. Then we did it in cm, which also worked well. The new system wants everything in fractional feet, which is absurd.)
Years ago there was a great amount of pressure in the company that I worked for to express all measurements in metric. Unfortunately, I was working in business forms where standard paper sizes were 8 1/2" x 11", and computer printers (and typwriters, remember these) printed 10 characters per inch horizontally and 6 lines per inch vertically. These measurements were impossible to use when converted to metric to 6 decimal places. There where no rulers that could be used to measure such units. We stuck to our guns and our pica rulers, which were calibrated to the measurements we needed to use.
There are many rulers or scales out there calibrated in many different units. My favourite is a printers scale with 1/10", 1/6", 1/12" as well as standard 16ths. If you want to get real fine you used a points/pica scale which was divided into 72 units per inch with 12 points per pica, and 6 pica per inch.
I use decimals more than 1/8 (etc) inch rulers. I find it easier to add dimensions, divide into sections, etc. Buy yourself a decimal straightedge and I bet you'll like using it.
Like "em's" and "en's"? :)
One of my most fortunate opportunities was to work as a Print Devil. The shop was a odd-mix of technology. Two linotypes, still operational; the old pulleys, that ran the presses, still on the cieling; a computerized typesetter in the corner; typewriters and word processors, old Kluge platten presses next to a small web press; etc.
One of my favorite jobs was, after a hand-set, putting the type back into the distribution box - noting that the space for some letters ('e', 't') were larger than others. Least favorite had to be melting the lead type to reform the ingots for the Linotype.
Old Bob used to joke that he could read upside-down and backwards better than forwards.
I remember watching that darned Linotype for hours, still an amazing work of engineering.
Especially when they were invented over (I think) a hundred years ago.
Sorry, a _real_ "pica pole" does -not- have 72 points to the inch. "True printers points" vs. inches is -not- an exact relationship.
72.27 points for one inch is a 'good enough' approximation for almost all real-world work._Most_ modern computer-based composing systems do use a 'fat point', where there _are_ exactly 72 points to the inch.
The difference is _just_enough_ to screw things up, if you're not aware of it, and doing precision printing.
Jack:
I've used a lot of 3832 slides and IIRC, the first hole from the front of the cabinet needs to be centered at 37mm, in order to provide the proper setback of the slide. From there the rest of the holes should follow a 32mm pattern to the back of the slide.
The last time I made a template, I printed out a CAD sheet with the
37mm hole and then 32mm spacing, spray adhesived to some 1/4" MDF, centerpunched and drilled, and it worked fine.I never bothered with the bracket kit and simply milled pieces to pack out the sides to the inside edge of the face frame.
(Of course, my 32mm line borer is for sale - if you're going to be doing a lot of these.)
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret) Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet Website:
If that is the case, then "true printers points" are not accurately defined. What you are describing is an approximation and, that being the case, the notion of "precision printing" is nonsense. A precision approximation? What's that? Is it is similar to a smidge? Maybe closer to a gnat's ass?
Actually an "em quad" and an "en quad". :) (for the uneducated, 2 "en"s == 1 "em".)
The literal dimension of which varied according to the size _and_ style_ of type employed.
So, "no", rulers were _not_ calibrated in such units. Although some kinds of spacing were called out in those units.
Not to mention the ambiguity issue if one tried to employ those "units" at a point where to dissimilar fonts adjoined.
The correct job title is "printer's devil". "Devil" actually being an archaic word for 'assistant'/'helper'.
I never actually _worked_ in a letter-press shop, but my folks -bought- a lot of printing for their business, and us kids often got to tag along when they went to the printers. And _were_ allowed into 'shop' areas, as long as we stayed out of the way (both of the equipment, and the people :) The Linotype room was a favorite visiting spot. :)
The shop where they bought most of printing was a sizable operation. IIRC, they had 6 Linotypes, with at least 3-4 of them manned most of the time. 3 shifts. Probably 50+ people in the press-room. I think about the _only_ kind of a press they didn't have was a web. Heck, they even had one of the ones like you see in the old Westerns -- lay the sheet of paper on the type frame, and crank the big wooden windless to press 'em together. They _used_ it regularly, too. For pulling 'proof' pages, for customer approval, before the job went on the high-speed presses.
Heidelberg rotary presses were fascinating to watch, too.
I think it was a Kluge, where the sheets passed barely-over/through a line of flame, just before settling in the output stacker.
This shop did enough typesetting that they had an automatic melter/reformer, As well as an extruding machine for generating filler bars. The melter ran full-time.
Type slugs read upside-down *or* backwards, not both. It's a 'mirror image' of what hits the paper. I found reading upside-down easier/faster than reading right-to-left.
One heck of a gadget, aren't they? _all_ mechanical. Rube Goldberg would be green with envy. Not so much fun when a font matrix jammed, way up there on the traveller, and somebody had to climb up there an manually un-jam it.
There _is_ at least one *still*in*commercial*operation*, today.
BTW, you're _strongly_ encouraged to look up an old science-fiction short story called ETOAIN SHRDLU The title should give you an idea of the content.
The measurements I referred to are the hole spacing in the brackets to center the bracket vertically in the opening. The brackets are indented to index off the inside of the face frame to give the proper set back.
I'm retro-fitting some existing cabinets. They're are two drawer in each cabinet. The unit is open across the full width, except for the face frame. There is nothing inside the cabinet, between the drawers, to attach any blocking.
Not if I can help it. I'm not particularly fond of doing retro's, but the original cabinet construction is pretty good. The drawers were molded plastic and have always sucked.
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Sorry, I'm not familiar with them.
Perfect opportunity to use the pocket hole jig.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret) Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet Website:
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.