On another note.

On Aug 6, 2024, Leon wrote (in article<m9ScnZZuSbqspy snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com):

About a year ago I added the Wixey DRO to my DeWalt 735x bench top planer. I loved it so much that I immediately ordered one for table saw.

Precisely repeatable cuts are no longer an issue, and as Leon stated, it plays nice with a dado stack.

If you’re debating about getting one, my vote would be a resounding yes.

Joe

Just Another Joe snipped-for-privacy@pmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.giganews.com:

I can definitely see how useful it would be! Now you don't have to worry so much about moving the fence before you get all the cuts done... Or if you happen to have an oopsie after you've finished the cuts (no one here has ever cut on the wrong side of the tape measure, have they?), a replacement will still fit as well.

$150 is a lot cheaper than $1500 for a CNC!

Puckdropper

Bob found a Grizzly DRO for his TS. I has a tape that the DRO reads and the tape goes down over the existing rule. I'm waiting for his report. $66. IIRC.

On Aug 16, 2024, Leon wrote (in article snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com):

The Wixey DRO mounts under the beam of my Biesemeyer fence, and doesn’t interfere with the the tape on top, so you can use either method for measuring your cut.

Sometimes it’s just easier to use the tape rather than the DRO for quick cuts.

Just my .02¢

Joe

Yes the Grizzly DRO does add a tape to the top of the existing one and requires the removal of the existing SS cursor.

Bob has reported that it looses calibration id the fence does not stay grounded on the from bar. I think he is getting rid of it.

Back to the Wixey for him I believe. I do have the Wixey and really like it. His issue is that he also has the Woodpeckers Rip Stop mounted under the front rail. I think he is working that out now.

And yes the cursor on the fence is quick but with the Wixey I am finding that I am looking at it over the cursor 100% of the time.

I build complicated furniture/ cabinets. Close, touching the right or left side of the rule on the front rail, is close but not exact enough for me. With the Wixey DRO I tune in to the closest thousandths. Anal? Yes!

So I build front and back face frames. Those have grooves/dados on the back of the front FF and front of the back FF. The cabinet carcass fits into all of those grooves/dado's. Additionally the carcass top and bottoms and any fixed shelves are dado-ed into the carcass sides.

I just finished 2 cabinets with drawers, fixed, and adjustable shelves.

I glue up the face frames first, rails and stiles. I cut grooves in all of these pieces to receive the carcass parts. And then I cut short dado's in the stiles to complete the grooves in the rails to intersect the groves in the stiles.

The cabinet gets glued up completely all in one gluing process. In this case the front and back face frames and the 3 fixed shelves and side panels all at once. On all, X, Y, and Z axis's. Every thing must fit perfectly to go together during glue up.

Sometimes I will test fit but that is a waste of time. It either fits or does not fit. If it did not fit I would have to rebuild the front and back face frames. Fortunately this has not happened in the past 15 years of building cabinets this way.

This is how it gets glued up.

I forgot to mention that the DRO is great for recalibrating the location of the fence when using a stacked dado. No measuring required!