Novice Question

[Frank]

I built an arbor using cedar, which was easy to cut with a hand-held jigsaw. Now I want to use a similar design to make a pergola porch above my front door. This time, I was to use pressure treated wood because the original porch rotted out.

Here's the question. Can I easily cut pressure treated wood? I plan on making freehand cuts and I'm not sure if pressure treated wood allows for this. Also, I need to use a wood chissle on it too.

Here is a picture of my arbor:

how the ends are cut? Do you think I have any chance of duplicating the ends on a piece of pressure treated lumber? If not, what do you suggest?

Thanks, Frank

[Dave Balderstone]

My neighbor built something very similar from PT lumber, using a jigsaw to cut the ends, last summer. It looks great, and wasn't a great problem for him. He used chisels, rasps, etc., to shape and round the edges of the pieces. I don't recall he was at all stressed due to it being difficult. I do recall the wood being VERY wet.

Use precautions to avoid breathing the sawdust.

[Mike Marlow]

That is very achievable using pressure treated lumber Frank. You'll find that it tools just about like a fairly green piece of pine.

[loutent]

Hi Frank,

I built an arbor from PT wood about 10 years ago for our garden. I used 4x4's for the posts and after a year or so, two of them started to twist - as they dried out I guess. Now it looks like crap.

Your arbor using cedar looks really nice. I intend to re-do ours and was thinking of using cedar this time.

Why not use cedar for your porch?

Lou

[Ron Magen]

Frank, That arbor certainly looks like a pergola I built for my wife. It was several years ago and the roses have grown all over it !!

I used butt-ugly PT because I wanted to do it ONCE. Even so, I 'insolated' it from the ground {I modified it to 'semi-freestanding'}with PT 'blocks' under the legs. The corbels were cut with a bandsaw. Assembly was with Stainless Steel screws & bolts. Prior to assembly, it got two coats of primer and about 6 coats of exterior white semi-gloss.

Other than a bit dirty it looks like the day I set it in place.

Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop

[Pat Barber]

Pressure treated is just a treatment. It will not affect your ability to cut the wood.

"Most" pt lumber is southern yellow pine(SYP) and it will machine fairly well.

If you can get really lucky, find some KDPT which is pressure treated lumber that has been kiln dryed after the treatment. This is normally, VERY nice lumber.

Frank wrote:

[Battleax]

And don't handle the wood with bare hands

[Frank J. Vitale]

It is recommended that you use a mask when cutting pressure treated wood. Since the treatment does not go all the way into the wood, when you cut it you have untreated wood exposed to the elements. You used to be able to buy some liquid to treat the cut ends. I don't know if they still sell it.

Have you thought of using some of the new "imitation" woods that they are using for decks these days.

[John]

Quality jigsaw and sharp blades should work just fine for this - cheap jigsaw may NOT be up to this, however, sharp blades can and do make a difference - I love my Bosch 1591, and would never try this with my first jigsaw - a #29.99 B&D Pressure treated lumber is often very WET and heavy, so take it easy and don't try to cut too fast

John

[Frank]

Thanks for all your feedback. I'm going to spend the extra money and use cedar! I'll just make sure I put a good primer/sealer down before I paint. I didn't know that PTW warps. That's enough for me to give up on it plus it's hard to shape.

Thanks, Frank

[Phisherman]

PT wood cuts, shapes, and sands easily. The problem is the toxic dust and high moisture content. When I selected PT wood, I work outdoors and use a tight-fitting dust mask. The sawdust from PT wood has a texture somewhat like cornmeal. It has a high moisture content and will twist, bow, and wane as it dries. Alternative woods include white oak, cedar, redwood or teak.