not great woodworking, but ...

Greetings woodworking fans.

Today was a simple little project: replace the kitchen sink. I'd measured twice before I bought the new sink. Even checked with the handly template included with the sink. Missed one minor detail - the new sink has a bracket for the clamps/clips to hold it in place. Which made it about 1.5 inches bigger in both directions. Would have to enlarge the hole.

Have you ever attempted to cut a counter top, 5/8 of an inch from the back splash? Corded Circ saw, sort of. the battery powered one, boy howdy is that scary. Rotozip kind of worked, but with only having a blade for metal, made too much smoke. Jigsaw, kind of sort of worked. Router was semi-ideal. But they are meant to ride along on something (like the edge), and not stand off from the wall. I eventually grabbed a "board" one each and held that up against the back splash while attacking what was left of the counter top.

| |] board held against backsplash L

Reply to
pyotr filipivich
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re: "All told a simple project took six hours, three trips to the hardware store, and an hour clean up."

It has been scientifically proven that the average homeowner performed plumbing project requires 3 trips to the store. You are officially an Average Joe, or Average pyotr, as the case may be.

re: "Honey, does the term "plumbers putty" ring a bell?"

Yes, it rings a bell, dear, but the real question is: Why isn't it with the rest of the plumbing supplies? I doubt that any homeowner has ever used up an entire 14 oz container of Plumber's Putty. On the other hand, I'll bet he has purchased at least a half dozen in his lifetime. Mainly because he can't find it when he needs it. (or it dried out) Of course, at $2.12 for a 14 oz tub, it's not like we're wasting a lot of money.

re: "Even checked with the handly template included with the sink. Missed one minor detail - the new sink has a bracket for the clamps/clips to hold it in place. Which made it about 1.5 inches bigger in both directions."

Didn't the "handy template" account for that bracket? What was the purpose of the "handy template" if it wasn't for laying out the correct cutting pattern?

re: "I'd measured twice before I bought the new sink"

Measured what? Apparently not the actual sink. ;-)

re: "Router was semi-ideal. But they are meant to ride along on something (like the edge), and not stand off from the wall"

I'm thinking a trim router, with a bearing on top flush cut bit, and used from *under* the counter. It looks like mine has enough room for that.

Another option might have been to rig a platform that spanned the sink hole on the "inboard side" to support a trim router from the top. I have no idea if this graphic will work or if the method would work without seeing the actual counter.

P = Platform, R = Router

Wall

------------------ | RRRR | | RRRRRR | |PPPPP RRRR PPPPPP| |PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP| | | | |

------------------ Your Belly

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Interesting, it looks like my sink hole graphic collapsed to the left in the post, but looks fine when I click reply.

Hope that it is understandable.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Been There Done That and They Wouldn't Give Me the Tee Shirt.

I had a similar job a few years back. The heavy expensive cast-ir>

Reply to
John McGaw

Well, think about having to make the hole smaller and count your blessings.

I guess I don't see it. You're cutting only 5/8" from the back splash but can get a router in there?

Oh, BTDT. I'm changing and putting in three ceiling fans. You'd think that after the first one, the others wouldn't need a trip to the BORG. Nope. Each one has been at least two trips. Fortunately, hardware stores and "home maintenance" are exempt from the "shelter in place" order.

That's why I don't do (much) plumbing. I have visions of ripping up the street because every joint and pipe leading up to it has broken, one at a (hardware store trip) time and now it's the street that's gotta go.

You did good. My usual project management formula is "take time estimate, double it, and increase the units of time". So, a one hour job will take two days. A one day job, two weeks, etc.

Exactly! ;-)

Reply to
krw

...

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The multifunction oscillating tool w/ offset blade is the tool for the job...even the $20 throwaway HF one and a couple carbide blades would take care of it pretty quickly and is easily controlled/used in the tight quarters.

Reply to
dpb

snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com on Sat, 04 Apr 2020 11:35:28 -0400 typed in rec.woodworking the following:

more bad art (back splash and router held vertically) the distance "_" of the router base is > 5/8

| _i_

I keep finding "the one I knew I had". I have three soldering irons, two still on the cardboard.

As I said at one point "Honey, I'm off to Home Depot for a new counter top ..." We have a long history of "all we want to do is [install bathtub] and while we're at it, and then might as well", and while it doesn't end with "everybody dead, the castle is on fire and you've lost your hat", it would be cheaper to take the screen door off the front and put it on a new house.

Earlier in the Week, I'd replace the thermostat / mixer gizmo on the washing machine. The actual part swap was "easy". Getting to it

- clear space in utility hall, review video , disassemble washer, review video, R&R part, mop up,. clean up, put all back together. I figured this would be along those lines For some values of "along", it was. Major point, I got it done so that we're were without a sink for only the afternoon.

Not an option. I'd like to add a bathtub to the current bathroom. "Should take more than four week" say my contractor friends. No dice, not going to happen. That means a month, which is about 29.5 days too long The Wife would be without a bathroom.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

I hadn't thought of that. I do, somewhere, I think, have a saw gizmo to go in a drill / dremel. "next time".

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

^5. Despite the "troubles", it's always nice to get the job done.

Not great work, but this week I raised the level of an outside water faucet . For a long time I've hated bending down, near the ground, to use this faucet. Plumbing is not my forte, either.

Not great woodwork, but yesterday (for 5 hours) I removed/relocated the pha se converter motor and wall panel control box to a more suitable spot, away from the big jointer, allowing a better location for the jointer, itself, and better for handling wood through the jointer and jointing. Involved re moving the supports and rebuilding in the new spot. Today, I'll move the j ointer to a better, permanent location.

Also, in keeping busy these late nights, lately I've been disassembling and sanding down 2 old oak chairs, fished from my grandfather's barn years ago . Been wanting to refinish these chairs for a long time. I'm finally get ting around to restoring them.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Ah, with a slot cutter?

Reply to
krw

Ah, now I see. I don't think I would have thought of that. Maybe if I had the problem directly in front of me but a router isn't the tool I'd think of (even though I have six ;-).

Yep. A slightly different issue. I tend to over-design things and Sketchup has only made the compulsion worse.

Just replacing the dryer exhaust hose is, well, exhausting. Last time it took two trips to the Borg and an order with Amazon. I ended up with a really slick magnetic coupler. They didn't have as many choices when I last did the job (it would have been easier with a slightly different widget).

Well, we have 3-1/2 of them. If SWMBO wants improvements, SWMBO can use one of the others. It's going to be down a while. Her choice. ;-)

Reply to
krw

Sonny wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Why are those things never placed high enough? You really need a good 16" from top of grade to bottom of hose thread minimum, I had to get a couple

45 degree adapters so I could actually hook the hose up.

Plumbing's not my forte either.

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

I hate plumbing too. Love, love, love electrical. I've installed a few st ainless steel sinks in plastic laminate countertops over the years. No pro blems on my end. Not saying you could not have had a nightmare. Plumbing! Yuck. I've had plumbers putty dry out too.

Reply to
ritzannaseaton

I can only speak for my house.

Rear bib is at 24". Could be much higher if I felt like drilling another hole through the block foundation. 24" is fine, since I have hose reel anyway. Only need to make/unmake the connection before and after winter.

The front bibs (hot and cold) are at 14.5". That's because that's as high on the rim joist as they can be. Any higher and they would be in the stud bay of the living room wall. I guess that could be done, but it would be a lot of work to retrofit. I'd also need a way to drain that section of pipe so it didn't freeze.

As it is now, other than the section of the pipes that go through the block and/or rim joist, the pipes are all inside the conditioned space. Each bib has a shutoff enough inside the structure so any frost damage (which hasn't happened in 65 years) wouldn't split any pipes that could cause damage.

Yes, I should probably install frost-proof bibs anyway. I know.

Not my forte, but I can get it most of it done. I'll admit that there have been a few SharkBite connectors used every now and then, but it's mostly been sweat fittings.

A few times, like when I cleaned up the piping around the utility sink /laundry area, I was able to sweat most of the zigs, zags, and angles at the bench, then carry that section over to the area where it needed to be installed. Then, instead of sweating up in a joist bay or right next to some other structure, I just used a SharkBite.

I've also used SharkBites for transitioning PEX to copper. I love the rotation feature, especially up in a joist bay.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

My rear hose bib is about 7 inches above ground level. Can't go any higher in the rim-joist area or foundation. Frostproof hydrant couldn't be used higher up as it would protrude too far into the house (behind thefridge in the kitchen) I have a quick-connect on it so I don't need to thread the hose on or off

Reply to
Clare Snyder

snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com on Sat, 04 Apr 2020 20:30:48 -0400 typed in rec.woodworking the following:

The house is 1905 construction. The toilet in the bathroom is basically being held in place by force of habit. Scary. So, "Lets convert the bedroom closet we're not using into a 'Water Closet'." Great idea, and less distance to travel for those middle of the night trips.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

On Saturday, April 4, 2020 at 12:53:00 PM UTC-4, pyotr filipivich wrote: ...snip..

When we bought our house 35+ years ago. It had a full bath on the second floor and a 1/2 bath in the basement, but not your typically 1/2 bath: toilet and shower, no sink. (in my town any 2 fixtures = 1/2 bath)

It was pretty beat. Exposed studs from the 1950's era (Big, brown, etc.) Slab floor, plastic shower stall with no pan. The shower drain was literally a hole bored through the slab with one of those kitchen sink drain strainers in it. I kid you not. I've used public campground bathrooms that were better appointed.

At the time, our money and efforts were put towards the important stuff first: electrical upgrades, the roof, exterior drainage issues. For the most part SWMBO used the 1950's (pink) 2nd floor bath and I used the basement pit.

Years later, when the time arrived to give SWMBO a new bathroom (our money, my evening and weekend labor) I took her downstairs, stood her at the door of the basement bathroom and gave her 2 options:

1 - We can share this hell-hole for the next couple of months; or 2 - I can fix this one first so you'll have a decent bathroom to use.

And that is how I ended up with a new bathroom before SWMBO did. :-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

DerbyDad03 on Mon, 6 Apr 2020 09:22:00 -0700 (PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:

I shared a house, which had a cast iron bathtub on the main floor, and a jury rigged shower in the basement. Garden hose hooked to the utility sink, sprinkler/shower head over the drain, hula hoop holding sheets for shower curtains. "It worked", although it wasn't until long after we moved out that I thought "Why didn't we make a set of duck boards to stand on and not have to dodge that hole in the floor?"

[Snip]
Reply to
pyotr filipivich

A frame saw would likely have worked as well, so long as it wasn't taller than the width of the existing sink opening.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

I think I may have one of those, somewhere. At least I remember buying the parts to make one.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

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