New tool idea -- need your opinions! (Hint: one machine instead of a planer AND A jointer)

On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 22:51:33 -0800, charlie b wrote:
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GOOD questions. First, see my previous post about the existing over/under designs. Also - my design gets the same oomph from a smaller motor (yes, TEFC, but I can do a similar depth-of-cut with about half the horses due to how it works -- and, sorry, that gets into Nukleer Seekrits). I HAVE tested this a bit on the usual B.E. maple, walnut, cocobolo, etc., as well as my Terror Test: Ipe'. It's a nasty, tool-eatin' wood. If you've never worked Ipe' -- Google it. It has fine silica particles which blunt tool-edges fast, often roey grain, and is both hard and tough. GORGEOUS, though, and cheap as heck. The big, interesting problem with it is that they mill it in the rainforest to finished size, then ship it up to us with our -- let's say SLIGHTLY different -- humidity. So some of my Ipe' boards have been doozies.
1. Yes, it'll do twisted -- see Ipe', above ;-). I'm still refining that part of the design, but so far, it's pretty good.
2,3. Not sure yet. I'm working on increasing the usable width-of-cut, so there're a lot of variables to be worked out: motor HP, depth-of-cut, width, etc. (Please realize that YOUR question has a few variables left out -- you can take a much deeper cut, at a higher feed rate, in clear pine or DF, than in red oak. >;-)
4.) Again, not sure. I do have some local tree-cutters drop off some log-sections -- lately got a few hundred lbs. of unsplit black walnut and figured olive, nearly 12" across, unchecked, and probably 20+" long) in a load of FIREWOOD, for heck's sake! They're sitting in the shop with paraffin on the ends for a while as I think about what to do with 'em. But - I don't usually work with wet/green wood until it's stabilized, so I don't know. Resinous -- I'd be glad to test that out -- what do you suggest, or have the most problem with?
5-6.) It's HSS at this point. It's also got a nifty design that allows the end-user to sharpen the cutting parts VERY easily, without needing high-precision. (KEY BENEFIT: unlike all common jointers/planers, the blades can be sharpened and re-installed WITHOUT recalibration or complicated setup/tweaking.) Current guess: the parts can be sharpened quite a number of times, then replaced for something like $20-40 total.
7.) How thin? VERY thin. Think guitar fretboards of REAL brazilian rosewood.
8.) No, at least, not yet. Currently, I'm just working on a machine to do two flat, parallel opposing faces. So, the "traditional" function of a jointer -- to do EDGES -- is not part of this. Ironic, I know. However, that's part of "Phase II". And it's easy to "joint" an edge with a router and a straightedge, or a tablesaw (which is what I do), so that's not such a big worry at this point.
9.) I think I understand your question -- can you keep the depth-of-cut setting on the planer, but joint the first-face on a new board? I'll have to think about that. How important is that? Wouldn't you joint the first face of all your boards first, then start to thickness-plane them?
10.) Dust collection is excellent. Probably considerably better than either jointers or planers.
11.) Setup is pretty straightforward. Can you elaborate on what you dislike about setup with either a jointer or a planer? (Table height difference on a jointer, e.g.?)
Andrew