New Shop Wiring?

No kidding. LOL. apparently not learning from your mistakes "IS" politically correct these days.

Reply to
Leon
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6-8' put > a 4-plex outlet for each circuit.

By the time you get all that pipe and wire in place, you could have had busway installed for the same $ and half the time.

Made a living winning that comparison discussion for many years almost every time out of the box.

Matter of fact, don't remember losing one.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Listen to the architect. put your lighting circuit and power runs in pipe in the ceiling and along the wall (about 40" above the floor for the wall outlets). Put your lighting and the top two wall outlets on a

3-Way (4-way) switched circuit (so you can control the lighting and transformers (battery chargers come to mind) from any entrance (I have a switch on either side of the overhead door (for instance - talk about lazy) as well as adjacent the "man" doors.

Also have a 220VAC Kill switch setup to keep the compressor from disturbing the wife "People are sleeping!" she screams in the wee hours.

I like the idea of running conduit under the slab, but have to admit folks here dissuaded me.

The folks who suggest running cable and 10Base-T into the shop are my kind of people. Also like the Piss Tube suggestion - especially now that I'm at that age! I piped in the stereo the other day "Ahhh, Bach!." and intend to run coax and ethernet as well. Best time to do it is when you first build out.

MOISTURE PROOF THE SLAB REGARDLESS!

Add an extra run of block height is nice, but raising the roof or lowering an existing slab is tough work after the fact!

I like my windows high up for better ventilation - but no scientific evidence on that. Privacy, yes. Neighbors' peace, maybe improved.

Not sure about running dust collection under a slab, however. Temperature changes are likely to create condensation, no? Would this not impede the desired flow? Result in blockage issues? I would think the air laden with sawdust would be at a higher temp than the slab (any buried pipes within) . . . Again, no scientific evidence nor actual experience save with cold moist slab here!

Oh, yes, I suggest using plug-in fluorescent work lights. At about $9 for fixture and two bulbs (I buy 'em by the case), they are cheaper to replace than a ballast. Instead of hard wired fixtures or Keyless, I simply put in a duplex outlet with one side switched and another always on. Then, each light fixture can serve as a ceiling drop (right under the light!) and replacing a bad fixture is simply a matter of unhooking the chains and pulling the plug.

"Twenty-four by Twenty-four" - "Hmmm, sure your name isn't "Norm?"

Good luck

How practical is

Reply to
Hoosierpopi
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Amen to every point you made. Nuff said

woodstuff

Reply to
woodstuff

One thing I did in my shop was to put the outlets in the walls up 4-1/2 feet. The electrical inspector said that while it was legal, he was curious why they were that high. I explained that I could lean 4 * 8 sheets against the walls and still get to the outlets ... he replied "hey good idea -- I'm going to do that in my shop!". Something to think about.

mikey

Reply to
Mike Fields

Only thing I have ever put in a concrete floor that I was glad I did was ... rebar :-)

mikey

Reply to
Mike Fields

Mike Fields, wrote the following at or about 6/8/2007 8:44 AM:

Hey, great minds think alike.

To be honest, I never really gave it any conscious thought that I can recall. I just seemed to me at the time, for a workshop, the ONLY place to spot the outlets was mid-wall, where they would be easily accessible over a workbench, stationary tool up against the wall, etc. Your logic is just one more in a loooooong list of reasons to do it that way.

OTOH, out in the garage area - all the same construction project - I mixed it up with the majority of the outlets being a foot off the floor and the remainder at mid-wall.

Reply to
Unquestionably Confused

I'd be tempted to pick up a surplus computer room floor (tiles and supports), if the price were right.

They're designed to hold a great deal of weight, and give you enough room beneath to route both dust collection and power (fluidtite or eq. flex conduit).

And the suction cups are fun to play with :-)

scott

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

And they're hard as stone. *Damned* uncomfortable to stand on for any length of time. Fatigue mats are a must, just like they would be on concrete.

Reply to
Doug Miller

I've seen it available (not recently -- not in those circles these days) at prices of 'you haul it _all_ away'.` Isn't necessarily as good a deal as it sounds like -- the base of the risers is usually cemented to the floor; just removing them is a job-and-a-half. getting them up 'intact' is virtually

*impossible*.

One *does* tend to get strange looks, at least from the uninitiated, when you ask what they did with the 'keys to the floor'.

And you _don't_ get into that space without a key. The only good news is that all the floors like that _are_ "keyed alike" -- getting a replacement key is no big deal except for the cost.

Reply to
Robert Bonomi

That is an *excellent* idea. You, my friend, are very smart.

Reply to
Bob the Tomato

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