I'm doing home renovations downstair, and decided that at the same time
I would bring 220 volt power to the shop (by doing it now I save the cost of
a repeat electrical inspection). My shop isn't ready for that yet but I hope
to build a woodworking shop over the next few years. I've already wired in
#6/3 loomex wire to a 70 amp subpanel on a 50 amp feeder fuse, just so I
don't have to worry about being underserviced later. 120 volt service is
Not yet having the tools to compare plug configuration, I am a little
unsure which 220 volt plug would get the most general use. Early candidates
for 220 volt service would be a planer, 8" jointer, maybe a dust system.
Would it be reasonable to wire in a small 20 amp plug, with the expectation
that I would use that one the most? Ideally I should wait until I get the
device before completing the wiring, but I fear that the electrical
inspector will not approve the new wiring job unless there is at least one
Twist lock plugs are great. The only caveat is that if you use them
anywhere, you will want them everywhere. In my shop I use a lot of the
duplex 110/220 outlets. I realize they are not code everywhere. I find
this setup handy. Virtually all my stationary tools are 220. They're
mostly on casters so I do move them around (except the table saw).
Sometimes I run on extension cords. Twist lock would be handy with the
extension cords because one does sometimes tend to pull on them.
Is the new sub-panel in the area that will be your shop? If so, I think you
are finished for now. There is no reason an inspector would require the
installation of a 220v circuit to approve the job. Later you will want to
locate 220v outlets near the equipment. Unless you already have your shop
layout designed you won't know where to put them.
It's four feet away from where the plug(s) would be. Then again, the
is versatile enough that changing it would be easy. I just want it inspected
passed so I don't have to pay for another inspection later. Am I hearing
there are so many different plug configurations that guessing would be
If you think the inspector will object, just put in a 115v duplex circuit.
You will want some of those anyway and there will be no plug choice needed.
Yes, there are lots of 220v plug designs. Some equipment that must run on
220v will come with a plug installed. Most won't. And all equipment that
can be wired 115v or 220v will come pre-wired 115v. You can just choose a
220v plug now if you like but there is no need to and you might end up
cutting and tossing a factory plug. You must choose a breaker size before
selecting a plug. You going 20 or 30?
There have been many threads on this over the years, so DAGS using "220
plugs" to see what others have used.
Just call them and ask. The staff in the department are more than
capable of answering questions like that over the phone, let alone at
their service counters.
On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 15:13:19 GMT, "Dave"
In broad, there are two _types_ of plugs used for 220V. the ones with
the straight blades that you just push/pull to connect/disconnect, and
the ones with 'L'-shaped curved blades, set in a circle -- called twist-lock
Within each type, they come with different (read 'incompatible') sizes and
orientations of the blades, depending on the power-handling requirements.
*AND* there is the secondary question of whether or not the plug provides
for passing the 'neutral' connection, as well as 'ground'. An issue/concern
only if the device has some 110V-powered component, in addition to the 220V
Thus, the 'spectrum' includes 3-wire/4-wire, straight/twist-lok, and something
like half-a-dozen possible power-rating levels. Which makes for TWENTY-FOUR
possible plug/socket types to choose from.
Basically there are only a couple of requirements, in making a selection.
1) it has to be rated for the power level you'll be pulling through it.
2) it has to match that which will be plugged into it. (changing plugs
on the corded thing _is_ allowed. ;)
Unless you're dealing with seriously heavy-duty machinery (e.g. _honest_
5HP motors) a 20A plug will probably be adequate for most machinery.
Although a true 3HP cabinet-saw will likely need something bigger.
Comment: plugs/sockets are relatively _inexpensive_. 10 ga wire is adequate
for anything 'rational' -- well, short of a big arc-welder. <grin>
If you just need 'something to show', pull 10ga wire, put in a 20A breaker,
and a straight-blade 20A socket. changing the socket and/or the breaker
at a later date is 'trivial'; the wiring is good for 30A..
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