I bought a floor standing (as opposed to their bench model) jointer, jt360 I
believe the model number is.
One thing I noticed right off is how much it vibrates. The bearings seem
fine on the blade cylindar and the motor is as smooth as silk without the V
belt. It seems that the V belt vibrates a lot. I adjusted the tension and
aligned the shafts, but it still produces vibration. I'm afraid it might
transfer to larger workpieces.
Make sure the knives are all at the same height: one knife markedly lower (or
higher) than the others will unbalance the cutter head, creating vibration.
With the V-belt removed, rotate the cutter head by hand. Does it rotate
smoothly, or do you feel some roughness in the bearings?
Also, switching from a V-belt to a link belt may help.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It sounds as if you have diagnosed the vibration to the v belt.
Double check pulley alignment. If the machine sat a long while,
the belt can develop some pulley humps, a bit like an old bias
tire on a really cold morning.
If this is a new purchase, have the store tune it.
Change the belt to a fresh one.
Run the existing belt for an hour or more to see if it settles in.
Look into using a link belt.
I imagine it came with cast pulleys, you can change them out to
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
I'd opine it's not _necessarily_ the belt, although possible (and maybe
even probable). But, from OP's description, what appears eliminated is
that it _isn't_ the motor and perhaps not the cutterhead. What is
diagnosed is a one or a combination of belt/pulley(s)/cutterhead.
Don't know the exact machine by Delta # so don't know offhand which
machine it is in the scale of entry- to high-end. But, as you note the
pulleys are a high-suspicion item on the entry-level machines and the
belt is certainly a possibility.
Someone else mentioned knives -- unless one is _way_ out of position it
won't be sufficient on it's own to induce the imbalance OP mentioned
although it would show up when actually jointing.
The suggestion of a run-in period for the belt is good as the "set" is
CAREFULLY check the bearings by the stethoscope or mechanics' screwdriver
method to make sure you don't have dry or loose load. If they're good, it's
probably the belt joint or belt set, as others have mentioned. If the
motor's mounted on a free hinge, the link should take the bounce out, or you
can devise something like bungee load or threaded tension for the hinge to
smooth out what you've got.
Shouldn't affect the jointing unless your tension's so light you get belt
Try another belt.
I replaced a motor on a joiner and was moving it to another stand. I
got everything set and had a bad vibration. As you did, I pretty much
eliminated the motor and the joiner bearings and spent about an hour
playing with pulley alignment to no success. As kind of a last resort
I took the belt to an auto parts store and asked for the best belt
they had. As soon as I put the new belt on, everything was fine.
Those things are amazing. I've put them on my jointer, band saw and
drill press, after seeing what they did for my old contractor's saw.
What's nice is that they don't take a set, which is very helpful on
tools that don't get used every day.
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