I don't have a dedicated pre-set temperature edge banding iron, so I'm gonna borrow swmbo's. If I wreck it, I'll buy her a new one for Valentine's day (ducks).
Anyway, what would the proper temperature be for iron-on melamine edge banding?
tia,
jc
I don't have a dedicated pre-set temperature edge banding iron, so I'm gonna borrow swmbo's. If I wreck it, I'll buy her a new one for Valentine's day (ducks).
Anyway, what would the proper temperature be for iron-on melamine edge banding?
tia,
jc
I've only done it with the iron-on oak veneer edge banding, but the medium setting seemed to work just fine. I emptied the water out of the iron first. It seemed pretty forgiving.
I spent all of $9.99 at Kmart for a steam iron since my wife didn't want me using her Rowenta. it works great for iron on stuff. And it's MINE. :)
Dave
If you still have the original packaging, it should say. The type we use on 'trim carpenter' built shelving around here goes on with the iron set on a "low" heat.
Test it.
You want it hot enough that the adhesive melts sufficiently to crawl into the fibres of the substrate..... but not so hot as to scorch/melt/bubble/discolour/set-ablaze/smoke/stink/burn your tape.
I find that if you apply it with an iron, of sufficient temperature, then tamp it down by pushing something solid and smooth against it, like a block of metal, which will work as a heatsink, cooling the tape and freezing it in place, and will not allow the tape to lift itself off the edge. Holding it down while cooling will give you a superior edge when you trim the excess with a chisel. (Chisel will need to be registered:) I use a short/stubby 1-1/4" Footprint cheapie with back-bevel so it won't dig in as easily.
HTH
r.
The Oak banding I bought said to use the "cotton" setting - which is the hot setting. I did cover the sole of the iron with alum foil just to keep the glue off of it.
Glad I did!
Go to several garage/yard sales. You can find irons for 50 cents or so. I set mine on next to the hottest setting and follow the iron with a block of wood to cool the edge banding soon after it adheres. I then use a Veritas trimmer similar to
Frank
"noonenparticular" wrote in message news:V88Ef.24301$F snipped-for-privacy@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
I always use the "hot" setting. After ironing on the edging use a soft wooden block to give it a good hard rub to ensure that it is fixed. If the iron has an Aluminium sole on it use a cloth between the iron and the edging as the aluminium can leave black marks which are a real bitch to get rid of.
Here's the trick to removing the excess edging. You can use a chisel as previously stated but don't use the cutting edge!! Place the chisel flat on the board and use it like a scissor. Cutting in toward the timber. A scraper works better using the same technique. When trimmed just hit the edges with a piece of 120 paper on a block.
regards John
Have put a sketch of sorts in a.b.p.w.
Thanks everyone for the help.
jc
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