My monster compressor arrived yesterday. I admit that I haven't
totally read the manual yet.
I need a globe valve, dryer, filter, and pressure regulator. Can
anyone suggest an all-in-one unit?
I'm a bit concerned with getting the right fittings. The threading in
the air outlet looks a little more coarse than what I remember about
the threading on regular black pipe.
The manual also shows a short section of flex hose between the
compressor and the rest of the air distribution system. Is this sort
of thing at home depot? I don't remember seeing it. Maybe you have to
make this from compression fittings and a section of hose? What should
I be looking for?
Also, it's a 6 horse motor. Is a 20 amp 220 line with 12 gauge wire
enough? I'm getting the feeling that I need to go to 30 amp and fatter
I can't imagine it would be anything other than 1/4" NPT unless it was
3/8" NPT. Gotta be one or the other.
I'm not sure if I remember correctly what they call that--a whip? I
don't think it's going to be found at the borg. Didn't you say you
lived near Da City? Go out to Berlands and see if they have anything.
See if there's anything in wolley segap (anyone remember those ads?)
about compressor or air supply stores and check one of them. Is J.C.
Whitney still on South State? Might check there, too.
Don't get too excited about that 6HP unless you bought an
Ingersoll-Rand. Look at the motor label and see what FLA is. If it's
greater than 20A (@240V), then you might need the 30A line. But I
doubt it will. As long as it doesn't, your 20A line will be fine.
wow, guess we found a big hole in my tool knowledge. what is this?
does it describe the thread pitch or something? Is it the same
threading that the borg will put on black pipe for you, like for pipe
It's porter cable which is certainly made by someone else. I heard
that devilbiss made their compressors for them. I'd be surprised if it
I've seen 6hp "running" and 7.5hp "peek" whatever that means. I found
the manual online after I posted. It says 30 amps though so the 6hp
number is probably close to reality.
National Pipe Thread.
It's a standard thread (tapered), obviously for pipe. Standard, like
SAE or NF (National Fine) and NC (National Coarse) are standard
Yes, if you ask the borg to thread pipe, it will be threaded NPT.
You just build this stuff up. You wouldn't want an all in one. Your
drains should go at the tank, and at the remote connection points. Your
dryer should go at the connection points. Your regulator can go anyplace
that's convenient. Do a little internet research and you'll find a ton of
drawings showing different layouts for air lines and all of the associated
parts. Your owner's manual may even have some drawings in it. It pays to
Standard pipe fitting.
You can find short lengths of pre-made pressure line everywhere. Harbor
Freight carrys them, as do most of the places that carry air line.
What does your manual say you need for a line? If it says 20A then 12 guage
wire is sufficient. If it calls for a 30A circuit, then you'll need 10
I went to the borg last night and picked up a bunch of parts. I'm not
really looking to install an entire network of pipes yet. We're likely
to move in about a year. My goal is to put whatever I need on the
front of the compressor for now and run air hose to wherever I need it.
I bought a regulator, filter, and some fittings. The filter says that
it gets water also, but I think when I'm ready for hvlp, i'll add
another dryer. I haven't had a chance to hook any of it up yet.
Maybe i'll head over there tomorrow. I still need that flex hose that
connects the pipes to the compressor. I need an engine hoist also.
The manual (i read it again, I missed it the first time) says 30 amps
so I got the parts for that.
BTDT. There's nothing wrong with dragging hose around. In fact, my garage
is plumbed in black iron (I'd use soldered copper if I were to do it again),
but I have a hose reel hung up on the wall that I generally hook to. My
water trap is located at the input to the reel. When I paint a car, or
spray a finish, or use my air tools, or whatever... I find that I haul out
the 35 feet of air line on the reel so that I can easily move around. In
fact, it's not uncommon for me to attach another 25 foot length of hose so
that I can move more freely, depending on what I have laid out where in the
painting process. So - though I have hard plumbing and my trap is located
downstream to make water entrapment more efficient, I've still got tons of
hose happening. Not so different from your proposed set up. The big
difference is that I have water drains built in and my trap - being located
down stream more, does collect more of the water because the air has time to
cool in the lines. You can overcome that issue with an inline trap on your
gun such as I had posted a link to earlier. Hell - I use traps on all of my
guns even with my setup.
Dries never hurt, and I would not say they're a waste of money, but they are
not completely necessary either. You have enough compressor that you won't
be cycling all the time and generating water as badly as someone with a
small unit. See how it goes with the traps and remember - drain your tank
before *every* spray session. You can drain the water (90+% of it) without
draining the air too, by just cracking the drain valve.
I bought my whips at Harbor Freight. They're Goodyear whips and they're
just fine. I had to buy 3' lengths because that's all they had on the
shelf, so I looped them and then connected them to the compressor/line and
the reel/line. Works just fine-n-dandy. BTW - it's just a 3' length of
1/2" hose with NPT couplers factory crimped on each end. Make sure you have
the female plumbing for these to attach to. Now that you're getting into
the real guy tools this is a good time to remind you that it's always a good
idea to have some "female plumbing" around the shop from time to time...
Almost off and running the. Here's one more piece of advice. Likely you
also received rubber pads for isolation with your compressor. If not, get
some 1/4" rubber about 6"X6" and put them under the legs of your compressor.
You'll be amazed at how that quiets down the hammering that transfers
through the compressor to the floor and rings within the tank.
For now, I wasn't going to put a drain in. The run is so short, like a
three feet, that I doubt it will help much. The drain on the gun
sounds like the way to go.
Not only did it not include them, the manual has some very specific
instructions for bolting it to the floor complete with drawings, type
of expansion bolt for the concrete, and torque specs for the lag
screws. The manual says that if you don't bolt it to the floor,
excessive vibration will cause the tank to weaken and possibly explode.
This sort of things frightens and annoys me. It sounds like they took
some engineering shortcuts and passed the problem on to the user.
Still, the ringing tank sounds like exactly the type of vibration that
would cause metal fatigue or whatever weaking they're talking about.
Maybe a call to porter cable tech support is in order.
Water trap on the gun - not drain. You might have just made a slip there -
just want to be sure.
Manufacturer's CYA to a large degree there Brian. All compressor
manufacturers will tell you to bolt an upright to the floor. Liability laws
in our wonderful society being what they are, and all. You won't need to as
long as the floor is level, or you can level the compressor. The shock
absorbing pads are a very high recommendation of mine though. You'll not
regret putting those under the legs. Let your conscience be your guide as
you're the guy that has to live with it though. None of mine have ever been
bolted down and I would have to bet that the vast majority of those I've
seen and been around have not been bolted down. I've never so much as heard
of a compressor exploding from this. FWIW.
As a matter of fact I service air compressors for a living. I can attest to
the fact that a compressor bolted to the floor without anti-vibration pads
is a warranty voider with all manufactures. Some where at the shop we have
pictures of a failed receiver that was bolted to the floor and the weld
snapped at the leg. It bowed a concrete block wall out almost 16" and bent
the i-beam header almost 9"
We will not service nor will we pressurize a tank with a failing weld in it.
By the ay PVC piping is a code violation in all 50 states. It may not be
used for pressurised air systems as the oils in the compressor breaks down
the PVC and the glue. A severe schrapnel hazard when that stuff goes. It
is not pretty either.
I also did warranty work for Champion Air Compressors and Gardner Denver
they also void a warranty for no vibration pads
Northeast Compressor Center
You realize that you're directly contradicting what my owner's manual
says, right? It says no anti-vibration pads. The only thing the
manual shows between the concrete and steel feet is a washer.
Here are some options starting from most costly to least:
And many more combinations, I just ordered the 1/2" coalescing air
filter and an extra cartridge.
The manual should tell you all the "need to know " stuff. you can get the
flex line made up anyware hydrilic hoses are made. do yourself a favor and
pipe the drain out from under the tank to a ball valve, makes it must eaiser
to drain the water out. also see
http://www.tptools.com/statictext/airline-piping-diagram.pdf for piping
sugestions, you can't go wrong with the info on the TP tools site. I have a
true 5hp motor on my AC and it takes a 30 amp circuit and I used 8-2 wire
because I had it.
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