I have an 11-year old Amana refrigerator that has stopped cooling. The
evaporator fan runs but not the compressor. I replaced the compressor
relay but that made no difference. When I plug in the fridge the relay
makes a clicking sound, like it's trying to start up. Is there
anything else I can check, like the start capacitor, or is the
Bad news, if the compressor is shot.
A few years ago, I quit chagning compressors in older boxes, because
it had become uneconomical, because unless I practically gave away
the labor at flat rate per compressor swap, and sold the compressor at
cost, no job.
A "Hard Start" kit, like a 3-in-1, might help.
If a 3-in-1 don't start it, and the amperage is abnormal, then it's a
If it's just stuck, hitting the compressor (isolated from the rest of
the box) directly with 220 volts for a split second might free it, but
this is a hack, at best, and you'll probably be looking at a
replacement down the road soon, anyway. And never use the 220 "jump
start" trick with the hard start kit connected, or you'll instantly
fry the capacitor.
wide-open at throttle dot info
"The first step in intelligent tinkering is to
save all the parts." - Aldo Leopold
it is possible it is the capacitor. you will need either the compressor
or bring the capacitor with you to match up the correct
microferrets I probably
spelled that wrong. a meter that is capable of
testing microferrets would let
you know if its good or bad, it will
read the range on the side of the
capacitor. If the capacitor is good
then compressor is junk. If it is not a
built in fridge like some
subzero's Ive seen but a normal run of the mill
fridge. I agree it is
not worth fixing
I beg to differ, but it all depends.
Really old fridges were DAMNED efficient.
Insulation sucks on the newer fridges, but they make up for it with
more efficient motors. It's a wash, really.
I'll keep my 30 year old Tappan (built by Amana) side-by-side another
20 years, probably, even if I have to change the compressor someday.
Second to Revco, Amana is tops, when it comes to medium-large
Yeah, it uses about 4 amps, at 30 to 40% duty cycle.
But no way does it use 400 kWh per month. It's low PF, and the
electric company hates low PF loads. The newer models might only draw
2 amps while running, but have a much higher power factor. Overall,
it saves on transmission losses, but Mr. Edison charges for kWh, not
KVAH. So yeah, in the long haul, newer might be "greener".
But they shot themselves down, in the early '60s, when they went
thinwall. Insulation is [almost] everything, efficiency-wise.
Those without gas or electricity, who have to buy (and haul) dry ice,
already realize this.
After looking at the wiring diagram, it appears to have only a run
capacitor. That wouldn't make the compressor fail to start, would it?
I can get an adaptive defrost controller for about $35, but would that
also cause the compressor to not run at all?
I am at the point where we are definitely getting a new fridge, but if
I could spend a little to get it running and give it away I'd much
rather do that than junk it.
I've not seen a refrig with a compressor start cap. At least not original
equipment. You can try a Supco boost kit, or try to find a repair guy who
has em and can install em.
Since you've already done the relay, you're obviously comfortable with
electricity. I did a quick Froogle search, and didn't find the one I use.
Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
Christopher, either comfortable with electricity or stupid. There is a
capacitor shown on the wiring diagram for the fridge. Looking back, if
the capacitor is working correctly, shouldn't I have gotten a shock
when disconnecting the relay?
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Many fridges either have no external start /run cap, or it is
internal (built into the compressor).
I have seen external caps on older fridges, but they are becoming
less and less common.
A lot of old GE and AMANA built (not branded) boxes had them.
If your model has an external capacitor, just replace it.
It's only a few bucks.
But then again, a hard start kit is only about $25., max.
Why attack Chris? That's the REAL shocker!
BTW: No, the capacitor passes AC, and you will not necessarily get
a shock, or even an arc, upon disconnection, ESPECIALLY IF THE
CAPACITOR IS BAD! You COULD have some residual charge in the cap, but
it's unpredictable, and flaky, at best.
Give us a break, dude!
I've been repairing appliances for decades.
The "comfortable or stupid" remark referred to myself, in response to
Christopher's post saying I was comfortable with electricity, because I
asked about the capacitor shock hazard AFTER working on the fridge. No
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