Just thought I'd share this, in case anyone else has ever wondered how to read
codes on Minwax cans.
Can of Minwax Wipe-on Poly shows the following coded information:
Decodes as follows:
131 means it was made on the 131st day of the year
0 is the last digit of the year of manufacture, 2010 in this case (presumably,
manufactured in 2000 is no longer on store shelves)
00664 is the serial number of that particular can
BLH are the initials of the machine operator
According to Minwax, the shelf life of an UNopened can is five years. They won't
shelf life for *opened* cans, but my own experience suggests that it's more than
but probably not much more than two. Certainly, by June 2012, varnish from a can
manufactured in May 2010, purchased, opened, and used in June 2010, does not dry
as quickly as it did two years ago. It does dry. But takes 3x as long. I'm glad
I tested that on
scrap: the project in question was a wedding present, so the deadline wouldn't
slip. I bought
a new can. Guess I'll use the old one for shop projects...
Jeez Doug! LOL
Now you have me wondering what Minwax deciphers the MW as. :~)
And what does the C stand for?
Anyway thanks, I am sure the 1310 is all one needs if purchasing a
single can. Seems odd that each can would have a serial number vs. a
batch number. Would Miniwax recall a single can or could you trust
#00664 to be the same as #00700?
Here ya go. Right off of the pages of Wikipedia:
A serial number is a unique code assigned for identification of a single
unit. Although usually called a number, it may include letters, though
ending with digits. Typically serial numbers of a production run are
incremented by one, or another fixed difference, from one unit to the next.
I doubt that this comes as a big surprise to anyone--there is merely,
perhaps, some confusion about terminology.
Was there a doubt as to what a serial number vs a botch number was? ;~)
And again I find it odd that Miniwax says that their cans have serial
numbers. Serial numbers are pretty much exclusively used to identify a
specific single item. I do not see a reason for that in this particular
Now if Miniwax actually mixed the product separately each time for each
individual container a serial number would be called for.
That *may* be a valid criticism of Minwax *stains*, but I've had nothing but
great results from
the wipe-on poly. I tried it as an experiment about 8 or 8 years ago, figuring
it couldn't be as
good as the General Finishes poly at Woodcraft. It's not. It's better. It dries
harder, but the best part is that it comes in a bottle, not a can -- a bottle
you can pour from. I
pour about an ounce into an empty prescription bottle to use on the project, and
varnish bottle immediately. So the varnish lasts a lot longer in the bottle
because it's not
exposed to oxygen.
I have no problem with Minwax products and use their stains in most all
construction and remodel projects, including entire kitchens, but not
usually on furniture projects.
That said, just went through 2 quarts of Minwax Red Mahagony #225 at a
client's request on this (no topcoat yet):
That client is a two hour drive from the shop, and because Minwax is
available just about anywhere, made it easy for her to chose a stain she
liked without my participation.
My paint contractor uses it almost exclusively and generally adds a
toner to the top coat of where shading is desired to match floors,
countertop, etc, and, depending upon the wood, in an effort to blend the
old and new, both situations faced here:
Not ashamed to use the product in the least ... :)
Yes, most unusual; not exactly easy to fabricate; took unusual methods
to do so; will indeed go in a very specific corner; made for two; must
hold large Apple monitors; one desk space required a minimum of 31" wide
leg room; drawers and doors placed _exactly_ as the client specified.
Basically designed with the same principle of a band wanting each
individual instrument louder than every other instrument in the monitor
... none of it my call, I just build what they want.
My problem has always been that there has always been an area that would
absorb the stain. It could not be as bad as I think it is, ;~), I have
seen a lot of good work done with it.
Oddly I have resanded the whole section to bare wood and it had
absorption problems again. Resanded again and used another product and
no problem. This has happened to me more than once. Something odd
going on there.
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