metal protection and Johnson's paste wax

I've not had all that good luck with the wax either. I use Top Cote or Boeshield and get much better results. To remove rust, a product called Top Saver does an incredible job. Made by tablesaw look like new.

Lots of them claim they are. I just use WD-40. Doesn't seem to do any worse than any other method I've tried, and it's a hell of a lot easier.

This advice is usually given for tables and other large, flat, machined surfaces.

I use camellia oil for hand tools. A quick wipe-down after the tool has been used keeps the rust away. It's traditionally what Japanese woodworkers use on their hand tools.

A few tips on using JPW: Thin coats are better then thick coats, thick coats do not dry properly and tend to leave holes in the protection. After a thin coat has been applied and turns cloudy, buff it to a shine, it will dry harder and not be as subject to getting "tacky" when handled. JPW will evaporate with time to avoid this multiple then coats can be used to form a thick built up coat. Common solvents, such used in spray oils, etc. will dissolve JPW even if they are in the air. Used properly JPW will form a coating that will protect metal from rust for years. I have been using it for near on to 40 years and have very few problems with it.

Eventually I think most people migrate to Top Cote. Make for this specific purpose and has been working great for me since 1989. IMHO waxing is a temporary patch.

"Leon" wrote in news:aTWre.990$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com:

This, I think, is a valid experience in Houston, Texas. More temperate climates, such as coastal areas of California, have fewer problems related to humidity.

Of course, the ground moves, things burn, and you don't want to ask about house prices. But the tools don't rust so much. Wax is adequate for me.

Patriarch, wondering when the plague of locusts is due...

Ah thanks for saying what I left out. I should have said, for those that find that Wax is not adequate, Top Cote would be a wise direction to go.

I'll second that, although I find WD-40 needs to be re-applied more frequently. Still, at the end of the day I wouldn't spend more than 10 mins giving every tool used a quick spray'n'wipe... and I'd wipe down every tool anyway as part of daily maintenance even if I wasn't using WD-40.

IMHO CRC is a good alternative, although I tend to reserve that for automotive use. (Wet electrics, etc.)

I should add two things:

'Tis all common sense, really, but that seems to be a rare commodity.

- Andy

Leon,

Ever try Waxilit?

Lot of folks disagree that wax alone can form a "thick coat" if buffed off. Seems they contend that the solvent in the next "coat" dissolves and blends with the first.

in most cases, if you're getting wax on your hands, you either put it on too thick or didn't buff it enough..

I've been using JPW on saw tables, blades, hand saws, etc., etc. for years and have never had it transfer or get tacky.. YMMV

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

You have been using it for forty years, I have bought my first can of it, and I am forty. Irony. So it is just a slower, more careful procedure. Thanks for the info!

Thanks, probably will if I can find it.

Noooo. but that looks interesting for what it is actually intended. With Top Cote I apply about once every 6 months and just spray it on. I do not have to wipe it off.

LeeValley has it. ;~)

Cosmoline.

Wax works for me. I live in Seattle.

snip

I shave up paraffin wax & dissolve it in mineral spirits. I keep it in a spray can I got from harbor fright. (Pressurized with air). I spray it on and it seems to work for me. Not tacky and doesn't attract dust.

I don't use it much on tools, but I do use it on my table saw and other bench type tool tops with success. It not only protects, but makes the wood slide around easier.

I also use it as a f>