I'm waiting for one of my old posts to be dredged up so I can finally
finish that project! I've got a score of unfinished projects just waiting
for someone to reply and give me that last crucial opinion!
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
Haven't had this problem myself but I typically use a table saw. If I
was having this prob, I would first get something sacrifical I can put
under it, maybe an old piece of 3/4 ply. Then make a zero clearance
cutting runway I can lay on top. Again, maybe a 6" wide piece of
anything with a fence of 3/4 stock screwed along one side. One cut
with the worm saw sets the width. Now drop the runway on top of the
masonite, on top of the sacrificial. Set the depth to cut maybe 1/8"
into the sacrifical. Now the masonite is sandwiched between those and
the cut should be clean.
I built one of those guides by gluing a lone 4" strip of 11-ply wood
(some expensive scrap found outside a sign shop [trash] in Florida
years ago) onto a strip of 15" wide Masonite, then running the worm
drive along the plywood edge to create a saw guide as long/longer as
the boards to be cut.
The first time we tried this, I laid several rough cut 2 by's across
two saw horses and laid the Masonite on top of them. This time, the
saw horses were arranged so that too much of the Masonite hung
unsupported and I added OSB under the sheet to be cut as both a
support and sacrificial board.
I didn't recall as much difficulty the first time as I had this time.
But the wife says we had smoke then, too.
Thanks for the Feedback.
The saw blade is taper ground. Set it deep and it'll be hitting at
just the front and back edges. Set it shallow, and it will hit all
along the buried edge. So it heats up, which is what made it wavy.
Expansion slots would help, but I'll bet it doesn't have them.
Good part is that once it cooled down it was probably as good as new.
Run it deeper, and try to keep it in a straight line.
On Tue, 25 Aug 2009 11:56:15 -0700 (PDT), Hoosierpopi
I don't think the blade has anything to do with a "wavy cut." Most
likely, your tablesaw would benefit from a tuneup. Make absolutely
sure the miter slot is parallel to the blade and to the fence. If it
is off 1/64", that's too much and you will get poor cuts and increase
the chance of kickback. Also use an outfeed table, rollers or another
person at the back to support the stock. Always keep your eye on the
fence, making sure the boards are tightly against the fence at all
He's not cutting with a table saw--he mentioned a worm drive Skilsaw.
If he's going to cut Masonite that way I think he needs to clamp it between
two stiffer boards if he dosn't have a flat table to lay it on.
If he's going to cut Masonite that way I think he needs to clamp it
between two stiffer boards if he dosn't have a flat table to lay it
He sure is - no other reasonable option.
The sheets at 63" wide and about nine feet long.
They were free, but show some wear and tear at the edges.
They are heavy, bulky and difficult to move about - now in top garage,
cutting in barn, my TS is in basement, finished boards are for the
I think that "deep cut" advice may prove the solution. It was avoided
because I had stacked all eight sheets onto the sawhorses used to
support my cutting operations (cut the short dimension of all eight at
once since all were to be cut to the same length) and worried about
nicking the second sheet as I cut through the first. I set the depth
of cut as shallow as I could.
Like I said, I'll have to reset the depth and have another whack at
Thanks for the feedback.
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