Maple Hardwood finish - oil- or water-based

Aug 25, 2003 6 Replies

Our contract calls for oil-based finish on our newly installed (but unfinished) 600 sq. ft. of maple hardwood flooring (light-colored maple, not dark). What coating? I'm told water-based is more expensive, is more durable, protects against UV rays better, and leaves a more natural-colored finish on maple. Oil-based puts a yellowish finish on the wood, I'm told. Also, I'm told water-based is more difficult to apply.



Anyone have experience with this? Is water-based that much better (or oil-based on maple much worse)? Is it worth it to ask for water-based on maple, and to fork up the difference? Thanks for any help.


Typically the water borne product is "Water White" i.e. clear with no yellowing, it has much better qualities, easier and faster to apply, and only costs a bit more a gallon.

out of the house when it's applied for a day or so. The fumes are awful.

Moisture cured poly's contain isocynates, and are toxic to use. DO NOT USE THEM.

Very true. 2 component water based has poly-functional aziridine, highly toxic, known for birth defects.

Moisture cure needs moisture to cure, only works best in high humidity.

M Hamlin

Thanks for the replies. We just went with what was in the original contract - polyurethane oil based.

If this stuff is toxic, is there a real risk in our case - a one time application (3 coats) where the fumes eventually dissipate, and we never use it again?

On jobs that I want to look _really_ good and that I care about (as opposed that I got shafted into doing) I use waterbased MEGA Bonx-X finish. It's dummy proof. No buffing between coats, and no pooling. You could probably pour the stuff on the floor, and come back an hour later to find it perfect. I prefer the satin.

Oil is fine, but it's a PITA. It smells, is hard to clean, etc etc.

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