Is there any reason a torsion box couldn't work? Wouldn't that allow
us to use thinner, cheaper material while maintaining sturdiness? You
basically use the perimeter to install locks and hinges. Otherwise, is
there a technical need for a solid wood door? (I don't question the
aesthetic value of solid wood.) If we capped it with the usual
weatherstripping material, would that do the job?
Is there an outstanding book or plan around that would produce a
really sturdy front door without using the usual solid material?
Especially the hc doors made now. I
replaced a bunch in a house, the old
ones were from the 1950's. Quarter-
inch clear pine ribbing instead of card-
board, a full 1/8" veneer. One of the
new ones was leaning the short way
against a sawhorse and the wind blew
it over. A hammer laying on the ground
went right through it. Oh well, in Japan
they've been living with paper walls for
quite a few years.
If you build such a thing, I would suggest buying an insulating foam and
filling the inside of the door. That should reduce heat and sound leakage.
I might also weight the outside edge, just for a more solid feel.
From when I replaced the window in my front door, it appears to be built
this way. It's perfectly strong, as far as I'm concerned. Also loses no
more heat than the surrounding walls (however, that's not saying much!)
I have remodeled and sold a couple of mobile homes and this is common
practice. The short walls that these had necessitated a shorter door and
the factory just built them with a pine frame around the outside for the
carpenters to work with and a few sticks glued through the mid section to
keep the two layers of a wood textured hardwood from meeting in the middle.
They then cut in a decorative window panel to doll it up and moved onto the
next door. I wasn't impressed with the heft of the door, or the looks, and
I didn't feel it provided much security.
Not wanting to put pearls on a pig, I went to the discount building salvage
place and got a steel door with a dent in the bottom edge and cut it down.
And put a good quality sweep on both sides with alot of construction
adhesive on either side to bond the steel skin to the new kick rail I put
Structurally, no, there isn't. BUT! To put it simply; You ain't got
much twixt you and the boogey man!
I.E.; There isn't much in the way of security there! - EVEN against
heavy WEATHER! All the 'high-tech' there is cannot protect you
from harm (of virtually any nature) quite like a good, solid door!
MARK YOU: If a determined 'baddy' WANTS TO GET IN - he WILL!
The best you can hope for is to slow him/her/it down as much as
Torsion-box = great idea! - But use heavier materials!
Not everything is improved by '...leaner and meaner...'!
There is no way in hell you're going to get a 90min. fire delay with a
LIGHTWEIGHT torsion-box design even with insulation internally!
This would require steel realistically - and, in my opinion, this is too
ugly to EVEN contemplate!
I sincerely hope this helps...
On 2 Oct 2003 08:15:04 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (edfan) wrote:
"Is there any reason a torsion box couldn't work? Wouldn't that allow
"us to use thinner, cheaper material while maintaining sturdiness? You
"basically use the perimeter to install locks and hinges. Otherwise, is
"there a technical need for a solid wood door? (I don't question the
"aesthetic value of solid wood.) If we capped it with the usual
"weatherstripping material, would that do the job?
"Is there an outstanding book or plan around that would produce a
"really sturdy front door without using the usual solid material?
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