Building your own shed/workshop

This one's at the budgeting stage right now...
Next year, I would like to build my own workshop from scratch - simple timber construction, insulated and very very strong. I need a weird shape to avoid planning issues (the >5m rule from house rule - I need a chopped off 45 degree corner on one bit) so standard offerings are unlikely to be much good. And it will be fun to build something structural from scratch :)
Any tips on a good source of wood that's solid, stable and inexpensive?
(I reckon I would need a few 6x2's for the floor beams, 4x2" or 3x3 for roof and walls and something to clad the outside).
I was thinking decking timber for the structural bits and the floors as it's fairly ubiquitous. Is there a better source and how much might I expect to pay per metre for say 4x2" ish (so I know what to shoot for).
The whole thing will sit on brick or concrete bearer walls so I can store long things (ladders) underneath and get good airflow. I'll be insulating it and lining the inside walls too.
Ta
Tim
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Ah. So the old "<5m means deduct from the permitted development volume of house" rule is dead then?...
That's handy. I have a square garden with the bungalow in the middle so getting any distance from the house is a challenge.
And I can have >15m2 if I keep it >1m from any boundary or <15m2 if I have it closer.
Seems simple and fair[1]. TBH, 15m2 is pretty large and should be more than enough as I'll have a couple of "sentry sheds" for garden tools elsewhere.
[1] Though I'm not sure what the deal is with verandas. Seems to count against summer houses rather. If I need one I'll make it detachable :) Balconies and raised decks I can understand.
Cheers
Tim
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From memory, the new rules are even more relaxed. You best check on the planning portal but believe that the size is not related to distance from the boundary but is something like 50% of ther garden!! The distance from the boundary does impact height though and whether building regs is also required.
thanks
Lee.
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Tim S wrote:

1st rule of sheds / workshops: they are never big enough!
--
Cheers,

John.

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Can I add a cellar?
Talking of which, someone once told me that subterranian buildings didn't need planning permission. Wonder if that was an urban myth?...
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Yes.
http://www.getsurrey.co.uk/news/s/2054633_mans_frustration_at_basement_planning_refusal
John
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Tim S wrote:

I used 3x2 framing on the last one I did, with 19mm shiplap on the outside, and 12mm ply lining - that was massively over engineered and very strong. I used 4x2 for the ridge beam and the floor bearers (but I had lots of pad bricks on a slab).
http://www.internode.co.uk/workshop /
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Cheers,

John.

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Nice :)
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On Wed, 12 Aug 2009 21:50:46 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Yes, that's brilliant!
As for a shed never being big enough: I built one of 3x2.4m (it fits against the existing brick shed of the same size), so doubled my space. Get it sorted out and tidy - my cousin turns up with her old kitchen units and fills the place! I couldn't refuse and they're better than mine, but then a couple of friends turn up and are staying intermittently for several weeks, so I can't move the units.
I need another shed...
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
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Hi John Good to see some detailing photos - that was quite a major garden reconstruction operation. Well done. I wish I could find an excuse to have a go with a mini digger !
Couple of comments though on the workshop construction - and I will admit that these are thoughts based on the shed lasting a lifetime or more. I made efforts to make sure that the insulation didn't touch the inner side of the weatherboarding and ensure that there was the possibility of air circulation on the inside of the wood and roof lining. And I'm also sensitive about condensation within the insulation and correspondingly put a dpm under the lining (OSB in my case). The moisture level won't be as high as in a house but then the not-in-use temperature will be lower.
Just out of interest, why did you go for a wooden floor as I've always avoided them having seen too many rotten ones?
Rob
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Rob G wrote:

It sounds like you have an imagination problem, rather than a lack of a task for a digger problem! There is always a reason if you try hard enough! ;-) (the real skill is getting SWMBO to suggest it!)
(especially if you go for the small ones - 700 - 850kg class. You can get them pretty much anywhere). ;-)
(diggers - just one of those things that have to be done!)

Yup ideally a visqueen sheet or something could have gone there - or probably better still something breathable. I worked on the principle that using expanded poly it was going to be fairly impermeable anyway.

I added some ventilation and heating as well - the latter controlled on a stat set at a low temperature. That stops tools ect getting damp.

Mostly for comfort of working. It was intended to be a workshop rather than just a shed, so something that was warmer and smooth underfoot seemed attractive. I also made sure the whole structure was off the floor so air could circulate under it. That meant the floor also kept the draft out! The smooth surface made sweeping up easy as well - although bag of latex SLC would probably fix ordinary concrete in that respect.
As to longevity, I may never find out since I don't live there any more. I expect it will last better than most though!
--
Cheers,

John.

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Ok - Decking joists 4x2" can be had for 1.30 ish per metre inc VAT and 6x2" for about 2 quid/m online.
Flooring (decking boards) is also cheap.
But - can I ask how much 19mm shiplap can be had for at a sensible price? Wickes is quoting about 15 quid / m2 and as you can imagine, the wall area is high so that adds up to more than the rest of the wood.
A 15m2 2.5m high "shed" to any random design:
So far, I can build a frame and base for about 351 over engineered with 4x2" walls and roof and 6x2" floor, all assuming 400mm spacing (not allowing wastage and braces and fiddly bits).
Floor covering costs about another 294. But the wall cladding is reckoning up at about 750!!
And I haven't costed in the ply for the roof and internal cladding nor the auxillary bits like felt, plastic barrier and insulation...
I think I'm right that decking joists and decking board floor is the way to go for cheapness and solidity but I need a better estimate and source for my cladding or it's all getting a bit expensive.
Recommendations? I hate buying wood - so much effort needed to avoid botty piracy.
Cheers
Tim
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Oh - just found some:
http://timberclick.com/shop-south-east/claddings-h-w-s-w/s-w-claddings-all-patterns-3.html
More like 9.50/m2 for 16mm tanalised. That's better :)
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Mine is two layers of ply (18 mm on top, 9 mm underneath) with layer of 1" polystyrene glued between. It is incredibly stiff and I am sure it cost less than using decking stuff. The roof is the same.
The internal walls are shuttering ply (on 3x2 battens), for now it is clad with 6 mm wbp as it was cheap and I couldn't find any cheap cladding.
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The planning rules have recently been relaxed. It would be well worth your while going and talking to the planners before you go any further.
Peter Crosland
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Tim There was a query here on the 7th August on "Concrete base - reinforcement" to which I gave a fairly extensive reply on shed building based on 30 plus years of maintaining and building sheds. That may be of use to you.
I did get a hard time from a similarly aged friend recently for my over-engineering on the grounds that he wanted his structure to last the rest of his possible occupation of that house and beyond that he didn't care. He did argue quite logically that he wasn't building a shed for 2 generations hence !
Rob
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Found it - that was very interesting - thanks Rob.
Cheers
Tim
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wibbled:

Check out the one about 'why wooden' as well :-)
I am still considering going with a block wall because of the relative costs, and the problems getting decent timber.
Cheers
Dave R
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I suppose that's a good point - I didn't see anything in the "law" that suggested garden outbuildings were limited to wood.
Makes some sense building one out of brick, say. More fireproof and a bit more initimidating for the pikeys, if the door and windows are solid...
Cheers
Tim
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