Building a shed base

I am buying a rubbermaid 7x7 resin shed for my yard. I was asking around ab out how to make the base and was told to go with 4x4 treated wood frame wit h treated wood plywood on top. I was wondering if that is even necessary fo r a resin shed since it isnt going to rot from dampness. I have a bunch of big pavers (some are 4'x4'). Would I be able to use those to make a base on my grass and just put the shed on top of it? The shed has it's own floor a nd I do realize that it must be level.

Reply to
trusso11783
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about how to make the base and was told to go with 4x4 treated wood frame w ith treated wood plywood on top. I was wondering if that is even necessary for a resin shed since it isnt going to rot from dampness. I have a bunch o f big pavers (some are 4'x4'). Would I be able to use those to make a base on my grass and just put the shed on top of it? The shed has it's own floor and I do realize that it must be level.

What do the instructions for the shed say? I see no reason why pavers that are laid level couldn't be used. Many sheds don't even have a floor at all. You might still need treated lumber around the edges so the shed can be fastened down.

Reply to
trader_4

Here are the instructions:

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Reply to
TomR

Is the shed floor strong enough all by itself? Can you store thing in there without damaging the floor minus foundation?

Reply to
Tony Hwang

I put mine up directly on the ground after preparing the surface by removing the sod and leveling it with sand. The only problem I've encountered is some water in the spring as the snow melts if there was a particularly heavy snowfall. However this is a semi-arid climate so heavy rainfall is a very rare event and the soil is gravelly and doesn't hold surface water.

A possible advantage of building on treated 4x4's with a bevel on the ends is you could move the structure relatively easily. I haven't had the problem even in the winter but it also gives the doors some extra room above the ground to swing out.

Reply to
rbowman

Certainly depends on soil and climate... The resin may not rot, but stuff inside will get damp and rot. If the ground settles, the resin will twist and bind the doors etc. If you put it on a base, make sure that water can't get in from the bottom edges and rust the stuff inside. My ground was sloped, so I put cinder blocks at the corners and center

2x4 frame on top of that. Plywood on top of that. Flashing to keep rain out of the wood and inside. Problem was that I couldn't keep critters from making a home underneath. Tried to close it off, but they just dug deeper...then died...then the flies came. Finally had to raise it higher so there was no way they could hide under there.
Reply to
mike

My problem, too. Used an aluminum girder system that came as an optional base. One time in October after an early snow I saw dozens of small tracks leading from the shed to every other part of the yard. Critters.

In this case a woodchuck but there have been others. Raccons and opossums are very fond of bunking under the shed. Not sure what I could have or should have done - probably hired a concrete company to pour a nice thick base under the shed.

As you noted, killing them on purpose or by accident just brings in a set of newer, smaller critters and the god-awful stench of rotting rodent.

Reply to
Robert Green

I built a base out of treated plywood and treated 4x4's. These plastic sheds have no structural strength so they need a solid level base. Pavers would work if you could keep them level on the grass, which I doubt.

I put in a plastic shed for my sister-in-laws and they thought that they had a level bed of gravel but it wasn't level and it couldn't be made level. I built them a base.

I also put it up 4" because it's on concrete and I didn't want water to seep inside (this was back when we had rain in California).

Reply to
sms

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