I don't own a lathe so I don't think along those lines, but I can see how a
hollowed "vase", with that profile on the outside radius, and with the same
wall thickness as the sides, then "quartered", would probably do it.
Good thought ...
For a one time run of four corners, and if you have access to a lathe
and can turn most of it like a vase and then cut out the bottom with a
jig saw, this how your idea would work.
With the right equipment (a lathe, and a way to drill out the middle of
the blank after it's turned, leaving the correct thickness to match the
sides), and were I going to be in the business of doing this on a
regular basis, this is probably the way I would end up doing it.
It would be interesting to see if a lathe is used by the company in
It's funny, and understandable, at how you tend to look at only those
solutions that can be accomplished with the tools you own. I would never
had considered this solution without owning a lathe.
Well done, sir! :)
I'm not sure what I would do if a cross-section had an interior arc.
I think I would leave most of the interior solid, so that, after
quartering, I could use the TS to maketwo non-through cuts to each
"quarter", leaving interior vees of 90 degrees for simple installation.
The result would NOT look just like in the "manufacturer's picture,
but according to the web site, they "mill" the corners--which I guess
implies that they use CNC machinery.
Being a Shuffleboard game salesman must be a tough gig these days and I
am certainly not adding the project to my list--but doing this was fun!
Now a *pool table*, I might contemplate... ; )
And, as everyone knows well, anyone who likes shuffleboard has all the
time in the world to work on it. Old retired farts, wot?
Creativity can solve almost any problem. The creative act,
the defeat of habit by originality, overcomes everything.
-- George Lois
Just ram the sumbiatch through the cnc...naaaaa.. won't work either...
A William & Hussy and a set of full-width knives and a arched bed will
do this easily but the set-up will be pricy. One could do this in two
passes as the W&H is open-sided. At $14K per job one could justify a
W&H. (Do they still make them? I go look)
Here's a clue for your:
<<CRADLE: The ends of the cradle, commonly referred to as the "Horse
Collar", are made the old fashioned way, steamed and bent into shape for
maximum strength and finished off with a layer of beautifully polished
So this is one of those that the curved ends are not made from a "single
block of wood", and doesn't have the same degree of vertical
roundover/curve as the picture of the one you posted, but it is
certainly much more doable with many of the methods already described.
I'd do the corner by rough cutting it on a bandsaw and then use a pattern
with either a router table with a long straight bit, or a shaper with a tall
straight cutter to shape the inside and outside of the curve. You can get an
idea of how here --
You could use a secondary wood like pine or poplar for the sides of the
corner and then veneer it. The top could be done on a shaper with a pattern
or on a molding machine with a curved molding set up.
From looking at the top edges a stair tread shaper cutter could be used for
both the straight and curved sections on a shaper or a similar cutter on a
Being much less radical of a curved profile for the sides than on the
original photo Kevin provided, the profile below would fit right in with
your above, and also with dadiOH's suggested method.
The bevels for the sides can be cut on the table saw @ +/- 75 degrees,
then using 1/2" round over bit for the top and bottom,and the bevel cut
waste faired with a sander/belt sander:
The curved corners just needs 2 1/4" x 7" stock; joined to the sides
_before_ using the 1/2" round over bit (route the top and bottom of the
sides and corners at the same time after they're joined for a good
transition), and the curve on the outside radius of the corner blocks
could probably be faired relatively easy with a sander to match, a la
Meant to add, before joining the corner blocks and sides for either the
1/2" round over/stair tread bit, that the same 75 degree bevel can be
cut on the top and bottom outside radius of the corner block on a band
saw, with either the table angled, or a jig that will hold the corner
block at the same angle.
I just saw the following "Craps Table" project, and it reminded
me of this problem we were discussing:
One of the 6 pictures is an interesting one of its plywood-laminated corner
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