purchased a new saw blade ad decided to use the LV saw stabalizer (
washers). This move the blade far enough from the arbour so the blade no
longer goes through the insert that came with the saw. Went LV to purchase
the delta zero clearance inserts but of course this saw is an odd size..
Does anyone use the blade stabalizers? and does anyone know wher to get zero
clearence inserts? need two one for regular blade one for dato set.
I'm no expert on this, but wouldn't you put the stabilizer on the nut
side of the blade instead of the arbor side. That way it should not
move the blade with respect to the table insert. Since most saws (my
PM66 at least) have a washer with the nut that is the same diameter as
the arbor shoulder, the stabilizer should be equally effective on either
I for one don't see a need for a stabilizer with a dado set. Just my $0.02.
You make them from 1/2" MDF. A small piece will yield about 8 or 10 of
them. I lost the instructions that someone posted here a long time back,
but essentially, you cut a blank to approximate size, use a pattern bit to
trim it exact, add the leveling screws and done. Took me about 1/2 hour or
so to make a bunch. For the dado, you probably want to have a wide and a
narrow so it is handy to have blanks around.
It was either Leon, or Unisaw that posted the instructions.
I agree, I have a pair. Stiffeners are placed on both sides of a blade and
their equal size goes to balancing the blade. Just putting one on, (either
side) means that the other side is of a different size and that contributes
to warping the blade when the arbour nut is fastened down.
Necessarily, when stiffeners are used, a new insert has to be cut to fit.
There are two types of stiffeners on the market. One type has a cross
like a C so it only contacts the blade along the rim. These are meant
to be used in pairs. However there is another type which is basically a
large diameter, thick flat washer. This is meant to be used as a single
on the nut side of the blade.
Get some MDF or Melamine and make all you want. Use the original as a
template and after rough sawing out the insert (a bit oversize) use
your router and a template bit to make it exactly the same as the
original. Since you don't mention what saw, hard to say how THICK the
inset needs to be. I use 3/4 inch melamine for my Delta Unisaw, gotta
route the bottom of the blank insert to get it to fit, but once you
figure that out, it is simple to crank out half a dozen or so in an
hour. Drill and thread in set screws for leveling look at original
insert for where to put the setscrews
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