For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
If you're using a blade stabilizer, you have it on the wrong side of the
blade. If you're not using a stabilizer, I'm stumped -- misalignment, maybe?
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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Is the off center condition such that turning the insert around would give
the clearance you need?
Someone mentioned stabilizers. Obviously tou could use a stabilizer and/or
a washer to move the blade a bit to get clearance.
(Rich Durkee) wrote:
The trunnion needs to be moved over so that the blade will clear the insert.
OR you can use a file and widen the slot so that the blade does not hit. If
your saw is doing a great job at providing smooth cuts when ripping, I would
make the slot wider. If the results of your cuts could use some improvement
I would move the trunnion and realign the blade parallel with the miter
slot. The later being the correct way to fix the problem.
Contractors saws have the trunion attached to the underside of the table,
usually 4 bolts. Loosen the 4 bolts and shift the trunion in the
appropriate direction, then make sure the blade is parallel to the miter
slots. In some cases, the bolt holes don't have enough slop to get it
centered. In that case, call Delta if it's new, or get out the file if it's
Ross & Leon make good points.
I'd do the trimming on a home built insert, or a cheap, replacement insert
from a dealer, rather than the original, should you choose that route.
In fact, a zero-clearance, or near-zero clearance insert is often a pretty
good addition, if you provide a splitter option.
Your trunions may have enough room to allow you to center the blade or
at least move away from the insert enough that it doesn't contact. If
everything else is spot on, parallel to the miter gauge slots and so
forth, I'd just make a custom, zero clearance insert out of hardwood. I
haven't had the stock insert in my contractor's saw in years. I kid
myself that an insert for the dado head that has a slot cut by the dado
I'm using gives less fuzz/tearout on the underside of the work. Does
seem that way, though.
Rich Durkee wrote:
This happened to me out of the box with mine. I got lucky and could move
the bolts as described in another post here. In fact, I couldn't tilt my
blade to 45 until I made this adjustment or the insert would have gone
flying at my face. Not good...
I had the identical problem with my five year old Delta CS. Solved it
by using the Delta insert made for dado blades. Needed one of these
anyway so it was not a big deal.
I don't know how you would make a zero-clearance insert for 45 degrees.
The problem I see is that the usual process for making the insert calls
for raising the spinning blade up through the insert while it is held
down by the fence. If you try this with the blade set at an angle two
bad things are going to happen. The first is obvious and that is the
entry cut into in the insert will not be zero clearance because raising
the blade vertically will chew up the bottom of the insert and then exit
the top leaving a larger opening than zero clearance. The second one is
really bad and this is that if you use the fence to hold down the insert
you must be sure to put it on the side opposite the blade direction and
there just may not be enough "bite" on this narrower side to keep the
insert clamped in place. I suppose there are other ways to keep the
insert immobile but overall I just cannot see this as practical. Anyone
else care to chime in here?
Rich Durkee wrote:
Love the cynicism!! Boy, it is always fun to belittle someone else and
show your own brilliance in the bargain. Why do you need to try and
make someone else look small, is it to make yourself look large? If
your comments are intended to shed light on the problem it might be
helpful to all who read the NG to actually outline something of value.
Did you enjoy your self-satisfied smirk??
You are guessing here... right? The blade when tilted at a 45 degree
setting DOES NOT travel vertically. You better take another look at how
the blade travels when set at a bevel.
The second one is
<...previous quote snipped...>
On my Delta contractor saw, and every other tilting arbor table saw I
have seen, up & down motion of the blade is perpendicular to the
arbor, i.e, the blade will stay within it's own plane when
raised/lowered, regardless of the tilt angle. And as you say, there are
other ways to retain an insert besides moving the fence over it.
I don't know about your saw but mine does a pretty good job of moving
the blade in the "plane" of the blade regardless of angle. IOW, cuts a
pretty narrow slot by raising the blade regardless of angle. Place the
fence on the side of the insert where the blade is NOT going to exit.
In the case of my saw, the Jet JT10, the "safe" side is also the wide
The second one is
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