I could have sworn I've seen this bit but I can NOT find it in any of the
catalogues. Basically it's an edge treatment for a cabinet door that rounds
over the top edge while cutting a 3/8x3/8 rabbetted lip on the underside.
I know I can do it in two passes with a roundover and a rabbett bit but I'm
positive I've seen it in one.
Of course, I've been positively wrong before--- :)
There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
Vic Baron (in ZzHdh.10075$ email@example.com) said:
| I could have sworn I've seen this bit but I can NOT find it in any
| of the catalogues. Basically it's an edge treatment for a cabinet
| door that rounds over the top edge while cutting a 3/8x3/8
| rabbetted lip on the underside.
| I know I can do it in two passes with a roundover and a rabbett bit
| but I'm positive I've seen it in one.
| Of course, I've been positively wrong before--- :)
Try www.mlcswoodworking.com for a cabinet door lip bit
DeSoto, Iowa USA
It seems like you could do it by using a rail & stile bit, but place
the bearing BETWEEN the roundover and the slot cutter. It would be
another variation of the configuration used to make glass-panelled
doors. Scroll to the bottom of this page.
"Life is good. I woke up on the right side of the grass again this
the problem with these types of bits is there is no room for error.
the wood has to be exactly the same thickness in every piece. any
slipup in running the piece and you will gouge one side or the other.
Why would the wood need to be the same thickness from piece to piece?
For different thicknesses you adjust your cutter depth appropriately.
As for slipups causing gouging, isn't that the case with *any* bit that
cuts on two sides? Rail/style, tounge/groove, bullnose, etc.
99-001 from Freud....
Knowing the name is the hard part... Door Lip bit
Get or steal a full Freud catalog from somebody, including Freud...
oops .... wait one...
Go here and download the damn thing...
Vic Baron wrote:
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