I could have sworn I've seen this bit but I can NOT find it in any of the catalogues. Basically it's an edge treatment for a cabinet door that rounds over the top edge while cutting a 3/8x3/8 rabbetted lip on the underside.
I know I can do it in two passes with a roundover and a rabbett bit but I'm positive I've seen it in one.
Of course, I've been positively wrong before--- :)
Thanx!
Vic
| I could have sworn I've seen this bit but I can NOT find it in any | of the catalogues. Basically it's an edge treatment for a cabinet | door that rounds over the top edge while cutting a 3/8x3/8 | rabbetted lip on the underside. | | I know I can do it in two passes with a roundover and a rabbett bit | but I'm positive I've seen it in one. | | Of course, I've been positively wrong before--- :)
Try
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
It seems like you could do it by using a rail & stile bit, but place the bearing BETWEEN the roundover and the slot cutter. It would be another variation of the configuration used to make glass-panelled doors. Scroll to the bottom of this page.
Quick look on Amazon found these:
Bob
Try a "Google" search for "door edge router bit". Here's one link:
Duh! Now, I'm embarrassed! Considering the amount of time I spend on Google and Amazon, I should have found them.
It's hell to get old! :)
Thanx - they're all what I want!
Vic
the problem with these types of bits is there is no room for error. the wood has to be exactly the same thickness in every piece. any slipup in running the piece and you will gouge one side or the other.
Get or steal a full Freud catalog from somebody, including Freud... oops .... wait one...
Go here and download the damn th> I could have sworn I've seen this bit but I can NOT find it in any of the
Why would the wood need to be the same thickness from piece to piece? For different thicknesses you adjust your cutter depth appropriately.
As for slipups causing gouging, isn't that the case with *any* bit that cuts on two sides? Rail/style, tounge/groove, bullnose, etc.
Chris
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