long deck screws

And soft wood is what they were designed to work with. You should continue to have good results with soft woods.

I bit the bullet many years ago after breaking too many dry wall screws. I discovered dry wall screws about 25- 30 years ago, a few years later I discovered the square drive hardened screws and that was that. IIRC I bought a small assortment just because of the square drive advantages, I had no idea that the screws were actually less likely to break. Today I probably keep 2-3 thousand square drive screws on hand in 30 or so sizes and styles. Because of their unique design I use more pocket hole screws in other than pocket hole applications more and more now that they come in a wide range of lengths.

It's a 13-14V DeWalt. Didn't lack for torque. The gun didn't stop turning, it just started stripping the head, no matter how much I leaned on it. I think the gun has an impact setting, which I'll try next time.

nb

Heh heh... On one stalled screw, I did exactly that! Being from the bigger hammer school of mechanics, I'm never without my trusty 4lb sledge.

nb

I did use the dewalt tip, provided with the gun. I still think it a bit too pointy. I have a few other phillips tips that are stubbed at the tip to ensure full flute engagement.

Being a mechanic/machinist, when I think of an impact driver, I think of those heavy steel, hammer driven, whack-that-sucker! drivers used to get stripped phillips head screws outta Japanese cycles/cars or huge bosch electric impact hammers for breaking up construction stuff. I think this gun might have an impact function.

I'm from the old 16 box school of framing and am a babe in the woods with this cordless carpentry tool stuff. Had no clue till I watched a pro putting up an addition next door and noticed he never once swung a hammer, that I could see. That was an eye-opener.

I'll learn. ;)

nb

A little info from my mechanic days. A GOOD hand/hammer impact driver has indestructable bits, some better than others. I discovered Japanese bits too soft and would twist after a few blows, but the Korean brands were bullet proof. They also had blunted tips for full flute engagement. I'm gonna find my old Korean driver and give that tip a try. I never ran across a USA made driver, that style fastener (oval head phillips) not real popular for engine assy in US. Maybe the one's Snap-On carries are US made. I've not kept up with who makes what tools anymore, so many US tool companies having gone under. :(

nb

AKA: "4 lb Drill Hammer", so it is definitely an appropriate tool choice

Lew

...that's not quite the same thing as a dedicated impact driver will provide, it's a setting for rotodrilling and will engage as soon as you put pressure on the tool...

cg

OK I know what you are talking about here, manual hammer driven. Since you are a mechanic you will understand, in the woodworking world the impact driver is more like and works like an Impact Wrench except they are battery operated and use 1/4" hex bits.

Try a Bosch "Impactor" and you'll never go back to using a drill as a screw gun. ;-)

A hammer is still pretty good at coaxing boards into place. ;-)

It's fun. "More power!" ;-)