Something else to consider, since the DT jig will flex when a router is
setting on it, are you using a backer board under the top clamp to totally
support the entire width/length of the DT jig? If it is not totally
supported it can raise or lower with the weight of the router closer to the
ends of the work. It also insures that the DT jig is adjusted correctly to
the correct plane.
Let me clarify that. I use a plunge router, but once I have the depth
set, don't use the plunge mechanism, I use it as a fixed base. I agree,
the plunge to plunge repeatability errors would contribute significantly to
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough
On Mon, 25 May 2009 19:02:24 -0700, Mark & Juanita
I've used what may be an older version of this jig for quite a few
years, in its 24" version and have had no problems with it.
Will admit that I set up the left side for my stock height short
drawers and the right side for the taller ones. Used the middling
version of Loctite on the screws.
Used a full width backer and fillers, so that the clamping comes out
Router set up is a 3 hp Porter Cable and the cutters are CMT's.
Have not had fit problems but that may be because I mic my pieces
coming out of the planer.
Remember having some blowout problems when I started with the jig but
the waste board cured that.
Have had good results on multiple runs using this method but stock
prep for flatness and thickness has been critical.
Only problems that I've had were from not setting the router dead flat
throughout the cut.
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