Latex Paint - Tacky/Sticky finish days after painting - Solutions?

If you do recoat , use Gereral finish Milk Paint, it is a High grade Furniture finish, water base, scuff sand with lite green Scotch Brite pad wipe with Naptha dry recoat, One coat should do it. Woodcraft.
ps It's not real Milk Paint.
Ken

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Ken wrote:

Just for the record I can get a gallon of PolyStar or tinted Magnamax for about the price that Woodcraft charges for a quart of General Finish Milk Paint, and General Finish Milk Paint is another latex--it may be _good_ latex, but trying to fix a problem with a good grade of latex by overcoating it with a different brand of the same stuff seems to me to be counterproductive.

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Just a follow up that I received from CIL directly via an email to support in case anyone was interested:
"Although the product is dry to touch - it will take up to 30 days for a paint film to fully cure.
Paints with high levels of colorants (such as a tinted black) it will remain soft for 7 to 10 days until all the water and other components have fully dried out of the paint film. It would not be uncommon for a freshly painted surface such as this show blocking as you noted.
I would suggest allowing the surface to dry at least 10 days before placing objects with a definite weight to them in the surface."
Seems the black tint may be leading to the longer cure time.
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On Wednesday, April 2, 2008 at 2:43:02 PM UTC-4, schooner wrote:

...snip...

...snip...

I know this thread is 7 years old, but I gotta ask...
Does anyone know of any objects that don't have a "definite weight"?
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

A greeting card. ;)
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On Friday, May 1, 2015 at 8:34:51 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:

Color me slow. I don't get it.
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

A greeting card is unlikely to mar the surface. It's not a joke, I'm just explaining to you what the OP meant! Of course, if the greeting card hasn't been moved after 7 years there may be damage from the sun... Don't forget, you brought it up, not me. <ducking>
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On Saturday, May 2, 2015 at 12:20:09 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:

upport

placing

I see your point, however, I was not asking about objects that wouldn't mar the surface. I was commenting on the use of the word "definite" in the ema il the OP recieved.
As far as I know, all objects (even the lowly greeting card) have a "defini te" weight. Of course, one could argue that getting card might weigh one am ount when new, then weigh a different amount once it is signed since the in k has weight, but as long as the object is described properly (a signed gre eting card) it has a "definite weight".
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

Definite weight could mean definitely distant from weight 0. Think of it as a colloquialism. Mildly amusing is that if it were not for gravity, you wouldn't have to wait as their would be no weight--so you would have wait 0.
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replying to schooner, Marsha wrote: I have used True Value Easy Care and Weatherall paint for 30 years and have always sworn by it. The last 10 years or so I have wanted deeper more jewel-tone colors. I have a desk I painted over a year ago with a deep jewel-tone Raspberry Sunset." It is dry to touch finally, but is still tacky if something is put on it. I think that it is my fault-I had a contractor tell me you could second coat even if tacky. I don't think so! My wall I painted 6 days ago is on the same order. Deep maroon/raspberry. "Recoat 6 hrs." I waited over 14 hrs, didn't check the wall after all that time, and second coated half of it. BAD! I can't believe I didn't check. Has been raining, but I have had a fan going for 4 days. The one coat is still tacky, but less than the second coated part. Dark paint. Fan is still going, but I will try more heat-our thermostat is usually set at 62 degrees. PLEASE HELP!!
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caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_10900 @example.com says...

Paints are either "blocking" or "non-blocking". Generally speaking stuff sticks to "blocking" paints, it doesn't stick to "non-blocking". For shelves, tables, or anything where stuff is going to be pressed against the paint for a long period of time you want a non-blocking paint.
Your desk you may be able to salvage with a couple of coats of clear urethane. If it's still sticking to stuff after that dries though you probably have to strip it and start over and this time go to a real paint store and tell then what you're going to use it on.
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On Sun, 12 Mar 2017 15:19:16 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

Got that right. I've got some bookcases in the train room that I painted "Pullman Green". After approx. 12-15 years, they still act sticky if something sits on for a long time. Used to be a day, now it takes about a week.
--
Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!

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On Sun, 12 Mar 2017 18:44:03 GMT, Marsha
Scum sucking troller
No one should reply to any of these posts that have that renegade thieving stealer of Usenet post to pad his illegal scam site.
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On 3/12/2017 2:44 PM, Marsha wrote:

I don't see any interior paints on their site. It appears to be all exterior paints. Exterior paints do not harden. They remain flexible to expand and contract with the weather. So that may feel tacky to you, since it's not hard, like an interior grade. Not 100% sure, but that's what I think is happening. The same occurrs with Spar urethane, it always feels a little rubbery (tacky) indoors, but is fine outdoors.
--
Jeff

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replying to schooner, Gene wrote:

I painted over a bathroom cabinet w/ a formica finish after sanding the formica and painting a primer coat to help with adhesion. I used Behr Premium Plus Int/Ext Gloss Enamel. The color and finish look great, but even after 6 weeks (getting close to 8 weeks) I have the same problem. Stuff seems to stick a little before releasing. The paint is holding well, but that tack is aggravating.
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On 5/1/2015 4:44 PM, Gene wrote:

You really have to go with a top of the line premium latex paint if you want it to not "stick" to items placed on or against it. Especially in a humid environment. Alternatively an Alkyd oil based paint would be a better choice, in a good brand also.
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replying to schooner, Rose Duck wrote: roseduck
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