If you do recoat , use Gereral finish Milk Paint, it is a High grade
Furniture finish, water base, scuff sand with lite green Scotch Brite pad
wipe with Naptha dry recoat, One coat should do it. Woodcraft.
ps It's not real Milk Paint.
Just for the record I can get a gallon of PolyStar or tinted Magnamax
for about the price that Woodcraft charges for a quart of General
Finish Milk Paint, and General Finish Milk Paint is another latex--it
may be _good_ latex, but trying to fix a problem with a good grade of
latex by overcoating it with a different brand of the same stuff seems
to me to be counterproductive.
Just a follow up that I received from CIL directly via an email to support
in case anyone was interested:
"Although the product is dry to touch - it will take up to 30 days for a
paint film to fully cure.
Paints with high levels of colorants (such as a tinted black) it will remain
soft for 7 to 10 days until all the water and other components have fully
dried out of the paint film. It would not be uncommon for a freshly painted
surface such as this show blocking as you noted.
I would suggest allowing the surface to dry at least 10 days before placing
objects with a definite weight to them in the surface."
Seems the black tint may be leading to the longer cure time.
A greeting card is unlikely to mar the surface. It's not a joke, I'm
just explaining to you what the OP meant! Of course, if the greeting
card hasn't been moved after 7 years there may be damage from the
sun... Don't forget, you brought it up, not me. <ducking>
On Saturday, May 2, 2015 at 12:20:09 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
I see your point, however, I was not asking about objects that wouldn't mar
the surface. I was commenting on the use of the word "definite" in the ema
il the OP recieved.
As far as I know, all objects (even the lowly greeting card) have a "defini
te" weight. Of course, one could argue that getting card might weigh one am
ount when new, then weigh a different amount once it is signed since the in
k has weight, but as long as the object is described properly (a signed gre
eting card) it has a "definite weight".
Definite weight could mean definitely distant from weight 0. Think of
it as a colloquialism. Mildly amusing is that if it were not for
gravity, you wouldn't have to wait as their would be no weight--so you
would have wait 0.
replying to schooner, Marsha wrote:
I have used True Value Easy Care and Weatherall paint for 30 years and have
always sworn by it. The last 10 years or so I have wanted deeper more
jewel-tone colors. I have a desk I painted over a year ago with a deep
jewel-tone Raspberry Sunset." It is dry to touch finally, but is still tacky
if something is put on it. I think that it is my fault-I had a contractor tell
me you could second coat even if tacky. I don't think so! My wall I painted 6
days ago is on the same order. Deep maroon/raspberry. "Recoat 6 hrs." I
waited over 14 hrs, didn't check the wall after all that time, and second coated
half of it. BAD! I can't believe I didn't check. Has been raining, but I have
had a fan going for 4 days. The one coat is still tacky, but less than the
second coated part. Dark paint. Fan is still going, but I will try more
heat-our thermostat is usually set at 62 degrees. PLEASE HELP!!
Paints are either "blocking" or "non-blocking".
Generally speaking stuff sticks to "blocking"
paints, it doesn't stick to "non-blocking". For
shelves, tables, or anything where stuff is
going to be pressed against the paint for a long
period of time you want a non-blocking paint.
Your desk you may be able to salvage with a
couple of coats of clear urethane. If it's
still sticking to stuff after that dries though
you probably have to strip it and start over and
this time go to a real paint store and tell then
what you're going to use it on.
On Sun, 12 Mar 2017 15:19:16 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:
Got that right. I've got some bookcases in the train room that I painted
"Pullman Green". After approx. 12-15 years, they still act sticky if
something sits on for a long time. Used to be a day, now it takes about
I don't see any interior paints on their site. It appears to be all
exterior paints. Exterior paints do not harden. They remain flexible to
expand and contract with the weather. So that may feel tacky to you,
since it's not hard, like an interior grade. Not 100% sure, but that's
what I think is happening. The same occurrs with Spar urethane, it
always feels a little rubbery (tacky) indoors, but is fine outdoors.
I painted over a bathroom cabinet w/ a formica finish after sanding the formica
and painting a primer coat to help with adhesion. I used Behr Premium Plus
Int/Ext Gloss Enamel. The color and finish look great, but even after 6 weeks
(getting close to 8 weeks) I have the same problem. Stuff seems to stick a
little before releasing. The paint is holding well, but that tack is
You really have to go with a top of the line premium latex paint if you
want it to not "stick" to items placed on or against it. Especially in a
Alternatively an Alkyd oil based paint would be a better choice, in a
good brand also.
replying to schooner, Jerid wrote:
I have learned 2 things:
1) Always opt for the more expensive level of paint. The cheaper paints cost
you more in the long and the short as it will take up to 4 coats of the cheap
paint as opposed to one coat of the more expensive paint. As far as durability,
the more expensive paint will last much longer (less times you need to touch up
or repaint). Also, the cheaper paints seem to just scratch off.
2) Always go for an exterior enamel, even for interior. It's much more durable
and it will actually dry!
In summary, you may sneer at paying $40 / gal for the good stuff, but you will
spend much less time painting and much more time enjoying the finish product!
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