A couple of months ago I purchased the Fein Multimaster XL. I have used it
several times in places I would not have dared use another power tool. It
is truly a very useful tool
That said, the accessory for which the tool probably is best known for, the
triangle shaped sander, is another story IMHO. For the first time I used
the triangle hook and loop sander to sand a 1/2" dowel down even with a
curved surface that it protruded from. Basically I was reattaching a rocker
bottom back to the rear leg of the chair. The factory used 1 drywall screw
for this joint and I replace that failed set up with the 1/2" dowel placed
through the round leg and into side of the rocker bottom. I have made this
repair to another joint on this same chair with good results. Anyway
because I did not want to disturb the factory finish any more than necessary
I used the tip of the sand paper to sand down the 1/8" part of the dowel
that protruded after glue up. I used a light touch to insure that I did not
get into the factory finish.
About 60 seconds later the sanding was done with good results and the paper
still looked unused. The back up pad how ever had a melted spot about the
size of a dime. Is this small hook and loop stuff really this delicate? I
have always been a big fan of PSA and was rather shocked that this hook and
loop set up failed so quickly.
Anyway I e-mailed Fein with my problem and within 1 hour had a response of
how to "try" and avoid this in the future and I was informed that a
replacement paw would be on its way shortly.
The suggestions were to use the whole pad to sand and to not tilt the pad.
In this instance, that would be impossible. The surface I was sanding was
10 times smaller than the sanding pad and I had to sand it down with a
curved surface to match the round leg.
I commend Fein for the quick response and remedy however I think a PSA set
up would be more robust and last longer. Perhaps I can sand off the hooks
from the old pad and start putting PSA paper on it.
Any suggestions or hints?
<snip a tale of woe>
> I commend Fein for the quick response and remedy however I think a
> up would be more robust and last longer. Perhaps I can sand off
> from the old pad and start putting PSA paper on it.
> Any suggestions or hints?
SFWIW, other people have had problems trying to use paper other than
Fien with their H&L pad.
There are some rather high forces due to the sander action taking
place at the H&L interface.
Think I would run your idea past Fein tech support for their input
before trying anything.
I have found out, that the Multimaster can concentrate a tremendous
amount of energy(heat) in a small area. That goofy looking sanding
attachment (not the triangular one) is a godsend for some of the spots
I need to get into when sanding the inside corners of a cooktop cut-out
(solid surface). I have eliminated some of the heat issues by using a
course paper with a light touch, and progressing down to finer grits in
increments. When using the triangular pad, I found that the dust
collector attachment helps keep things cooler as well as is dropping
the motor speed. Yup, I have melted a couple of corners, but I haven't
I probably would have used an e-blade to cut most of the dowel then
touched it up with sandpaper.... assuming I could have reached it. That
narrow e-blade can leave a decent surface.
A friend of mine was seaming a countertop on a jobsite when his Turbo
II quit. (Brushes, IIRC it was very old). 1 1/2 hours later, the rep
gave him another one to use whilst repairs were made. Mind you, they
were working close to where the rep lives and he just happened to have
one in his car at the time, but still.... if they can help, they will.
If they do not want the old pad back I'll probably use it for this type
aplication and keep the new one for flat surface sanding.
I used my new Japanese saw looking e-blade for cutting the dowel down to
about 1/8" from the surface. I did not really press hard as I was concerned
about the paper coming in contact with the old finish and I did use a coarse
Any way, thanks for the input and I'll baby it a bit more when using the
I contacted Fein before my purchase and their quick and informative answers
left me with a good feeling about making the purchase. Today reinforced
(Glad to help, btw.)
No. it is the Profile Sanding kit. Looks similar to the PC profile
sander tips, except this works.
I have never used the 'finger' attachment, I have been getting by with
the triagular perforated ones. Problem is, that at the tip, there is a
dust collection hole, and not much sandpaper.
I have used a few of the Bi-Metal e-Cut blades. They cut through a
pretty good sized nail with ease. Buying 3-packs is the way to go with
these guys. Basically looks like a 3 for 2 deal.
http://www.waltertool.com/mmblades_1.html I have no idea who these
people are, just googled for some illustrations for your perusal.
I buy all my Fein stuff from Dave Eisan at Federated Tools in London,
And then there was this super cool suggestion from someone here: to
re-cut a worn e-blade with a Dremel cut-off disk. Works like a charm.
Maybe one day, one of us will try the Fein aftermarker knock-off. Can't
wait for some insight on that route.
Yes, I have that kit. It came with the XL kit. I have not used it yet. I
hope it is a lot better than the PC one. I end up manually using the PC
Yeah I discovered that pretty quickly.
I ended up buying a 3 pack of the EZ cut 2.5" blades locally and got raked
over the coals. I should have bought at walter tool and or Coastal tool. I
bought th eMM kit from Coastal tool.
Walter tool and Coastal are a Fein suggested internet supplier.
I remember that and have the tool. I'll try tha out on my E-cut when it
Yeah who is selling that, Klingspor comes to mind.
The Multimaster pad is rigid, compared to the foam pads on other
oscillating sanders. If you use them over just a small point, then the
foam flexes and a lot of power goes into the pad, not the abrasive. The
Fein keeps delivering the same power no matter how small the area, so
yes it's much easier to overload it in spots.
If you want a big squishy pad for working curves, then make yourself
one. It's pretty easy to make extra tools for a Multimaster. Just take
a steel plate, drill a hole in it and glue some foam on. If you have a
recent Multimaster with the star fitting, then recycle a worn-out
Modelled on the Oral-B "Hummingbird" dental flosser (Google - it's the
one you can convert into a lock-pick gun), I've built myself a
power-flosser for hippo teeth. There's a curved bow of steel rod witha
length of abrasive cord between the ends. Probably just a bit too
aggressive for dentistry, but it's just the job for "thrumming" bronze
castings to fettle them.
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