I noticed what I thought might be a wobble in my new Sawstop blade, so I
measure the runout with the stock blade and a couple of my older blades,
and found runout of about 0.010 inches. So I wrote Sawstop and asked
what I should do.
The reply was that a brand-new blade is in the mail! No questioning,
doubting, haggling, accusations, or referrals to the dealer. No
questions asked, just a new blade. As far as I am concerned, Sawstop is
a real standup operation, and I'm glad I bought their saw.
That was going to be my question too. His report is somewhat confusing
but I'll take a chance and guess that he meant to say he recorded runout
with the new SawStop blade but not with his older blades.
Guess we'll find out.<g>
Yes that will happen but given the fact that he said that he measured
for run out on the SawStop blade and and a couple of older blades and
all conditions being equal and no problems with the other blades, may be
I was thinking the blade assembly alignment referral to be more of a
blade to miter slot adjustment more so than the blade installation being
compromised by debris.
I also assumed that since the perceived problem was not evident with
other blades that debris might not be the problem. Yes the debris could
have cleared itself when switching from he SS blade to an older one if
the SS was measured first and followed by the others. Debris could also
have only been on the SS blade vs the arbor flange.
A lot of unknowns as to the method of testing for run out and exactly
what area of blade assembly was being suggested.
I would assume SS probably may have ruled out the obvious, but maybe
not, it was a cheap first try to correct the problem. IIRC the blade
that comes standard on the SS depending on the particular saw is a $29
or $39 blade.
So I stand corrected, I assumed specifics which were not mentioned on
the blade assembly alignment and how the testing was conducted.
Sorry for the confusion. I measured about 0.010" runout on the new
stock blade, and only about 0.002" runout using my old blades, so it
most likely wasn't the arbor assembly. Sawstop sent me a new blade
right away, and it runs nice and true.
I asked Sawstop if they wanted the old one back, and they told me to not
bother. Being cheap, I wonder if an old blade can be flattened, or if
it's worth the trouble and expense. Any experience with flattening old
Of course, if it isn't worth flattening, I'll keep it for dirty wood.
Many shops will resharpen but not flatten a blade. Forrest will
reflatten a blade and their prices are on their web site IIRC. That
said, once you pay fro shipping both ways and flattening you will have
probably spent more that that blade costs. I would do shat you proposed
and use it for questionable material.
Made me think of a Grizzly shaper I had bought and got rid of quickly. It
ran out of true. Grizzly said to hit it with hammer and keep trying it until
it ran true. No sure if you would want to go that route.
It's a brand-new professional model, 3hp. Beats the hell out of my old
1.5 hp Delta contractor's saw, except that I had built custom cabinets
for the Delta to sit on. I really miss those drawers right there at the
saw, so I need to come up with some storage solution quick. Any
suggestions (note that there really isn't room on the garage shelves
near the saw)?
Cool! I have a Jet cabinet saw and will be selling it soon. I plan to
buy the industrial SawStop.
I know just how you feel about giving up storage under the saw. Here is
how I currently have my Jet set up and will try to so something similar
with the SawStop
BEY the 15 roller out feed on the Jet is great no legs to worry with and
the saw can be moved with the out feed in the up position.
I never understood that from a marketing standpoint.
I don't know the margins on their saws and I know every penny counts in
manufacturing. But here's a company who makes no bones about the fact
that their saw costs more, but is worth the extra cost. So, why a
When it comes down to it, the blade does the cutting, the blade is the
proof of any wood cutting pudding. So why risk bad performance with a
crappy blade? When someone buys your saw and the blade is $h!te and it
produces a bad cut, most people will think "saw." And when someone is
spending 5-7 grand on your saw, strike a deal with Freud and give them a
great blade even though it might cost you $40 more.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Why a cheap ass blade?
I suspect for many the SawStop may be their first better quality saw and
that alone can make a cheap blade perform better than what may be
afforded on a lessor quality saw. Read that as many will be thrilled
with the cut of the cheap blade.
Typically on higher end table saws the buyer seldom continues to buy the
Manufacturers branded blade, not saying that some blades that come in
the saws are not good but we all like our particular brand of blades.
And when it all boils down rest assured that SS is not throwing in the
blade at no cost to the buyer, it is built into the price of the saw.
It would be better if they supplied no blade at all.
OTOH if the SS actually cost $5-$7k I would think the blade might be
even better than a Forrest if supplied. The pro version starts under
$3k, the industrial just under $4k but that aside if there is going to
be a blade supplied I certainly want better than a Freud. ;~) See
where I am going here, no particular brand blade is going to please
every one and for any thing less than a $100+ blade is not going to be
good enough. I would rather be paying for a $30 blade that I will not
be using than a $60 blade that I will not be using.
I've learned that a $100 blade on a $300 saw can make a cut that rivals
a $1500 saw.
I've also learned that a $30 blade on a $1500 saw can make cuts that
rivals the $300 saw. :-)
5-7K or 3-5K... same difference to me as it pertains to the topic.
I still contend that if I'm sending a product out, I want it making
pristine cuts "out of the box."
And I'd put up my Freud Glue-Line Rip blade against any Forrest blade.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
OK bring your Freud Glue-Line rib blade over and we will compare the
results of it to my Forrest WWII cutting oak veneer plywood cross grain.
See, again, which blade should SS ship, a Freud rip, cross cut, or combo
blade? Actually IIRC they are shipping a combo blade with the saw. I
want to buy the saw for what the saw has to offer not for the blade.
I'll buy my own blade. Again IMHO ship the saw w/o a blade.
No doubt you are happy with the results that you are getting from your
equipment. NO DOUBT. But not every one see's it your way. Basically
as with any manufacturer, they go with you can please some people all of
the time, all of the people some of the time but all people all of the
time. I'm quite sure that some of the people are going to think that
the blase that comes with the SS will be comparable to the Forrest also.
Now having said that, SS does offer a premium priced blade, you can buy
that blade when you buy the saw and I feel quite certain that you are
going to get superior cuts compared to the blade that comes with the
saw, maybe not. But that is going to cost another $90 and more than
likely you can buy a better blade for the same $90 depending on what you
Now having said all of that I do see your point, vividly. My Festool
track saw came with a premium Festool blade. I am happy with the
results of the blade but maybe a Forrest which is likely to be less
expensive will cut just as well for a lot longer period of time between
On Thursday, March 21, 2013 11:00:49 AM UTC-7, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
em $10, it is not really much to look at. I kept it around for cutting scra
Just to clarify, maybe not a "crappy" blade but just a generic non-descript
blade. And, yes if I recall it is a combo blade which would be the main re
ason I would never use it for real work. Right tool for the job is my motto
. Never had a combo piece of wood.
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