Of course, if you use words like "deep" overhang. One could, if you want to
make it look like furniture, lower the drawers a bit in the carcass and use
a sort of "crown molding from the top to the drawer opening. We ARE talking
doing something different here, why limit it during the idea phase?
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Yahhhhhbut, in order to compensate, you'd need to over hang
the counter anywhere from 3 1/4" to 4" and this ends up
looking like somebody made the counters too deep (a mistake)
or the cabinets too shallow (another mistake). In other
words, one of those scenes from Weekend Warriors that always
leaves me cringing.
If it looks nice but you don't use it or hate to use it what good is a nice
looking "What ever"?
With the design of your new cabinets, start with some kind of toe kick or
recess area for your feet. Otherwise you will stand back in a year and
wonder how you could have put so little consideration in to the toe kick.
When designing our latest kitchen, we gave the 'no toe kick look' due
consideration because SWMBO brought it up, but after weighing all the
factors, we went with the traditional toe kick space.
Obviously a solid base board, or any type of furniture trim on a base
cabinet, will push you even back further from the cabinets without some type
of cutout or cutout pattern.
I did see some nice looking units in the "French Provincial" style that had
the appearance of no toe kick space, said toe kick space hidden behind the
cutout pattern of a base board, with room for your toes.
The biggest consideration against 'no toe kick' for us was (and we saw
plenty of evidence of this in use) that the base boards generally get
banged/smudged up over time, with the curved area, or projections, closed to
the floor getting the majority of the grief from shoes, accidental kicks,
mops and vacuums.
If you spend any time at all in the kitchen, then you need a toe kick.
Specifically at the sink, and where there are upper cabinets. In other
areas, a toe kick may not be necessary. Your back will quickly tell you how
necessary a toe kick is.
I'd like to do without one in my new kitchen as well, but it's a necessity.
What I am going to do is build the cabinets as modules, and build the toe
kick as part of a platform that the cabinet boxes will sit on. That way,
you can build the platform as essentially a frame made of 2x4 stock, shim
that to square and level instead of each individual cabinet, and then attach
the cabinets to the base separately. You could even attach the facing for
the toe kick before you put the cabinets on, which makes it easier. The
other nice thing about that method is that you don't have to stick to stock
sizes of cabinets - you can build something to fit your space.
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