I built a 'test' kitchen base cabinet, 3 inset drawers on
Blum slides. False fronts. Ther has *got* to be a better,
more accurate way to put the false fronts on. How do
you pros do it?
Also, I made the normal 1/16" gap for the false front.
It's winter. Should I make the gap smaller in the
summer? (yeah, it'll take me over a year to make an
entire kitchens worth of cabinets) The face frame,
drawer fronts and doors will all be QSWO.
I have to fume all the oak, It's easy and fun.
Of course, I'll ruin it if I don't learn how to
use this spray gun real fast :)
That's funny, I thought pine doesn't darken
when its fumed. Maybe cause its so old?
I usually cut the the front 1/16 to 3/32 undersize, then slip a piece of
countertop laminate under it. Gives a nice even gap all the way around
(assuming I haven't screwed it up left/right-wise). To hold it in place, I
use a deep-throated clamp from above. To give a little wiggle room, the
holes I drill through the drawer box front are slightly oversize. Don't use
drywall screws to attach, the bell-shaped head negates the wiggle room from
the previous step. Comes out perfect every time.
Slide your drawer box in place and use two, three or four
small squares of double face tape to hold the false front on
long enough to slide it back out and run some screws from
Also, you can go to the McFeeley's link below.
Basically it's a low profile round(ish) head screw with a
wide flange (like a washer). Drill the hole in your drawer
box slightly over size at predetermined locations. Drill
mating holes on the back side of your false front. Screw
the two together and adjust as needed.
Now, I know you didn't ask but you'll need to mount some
knobs. Don't drill for knobs until you've aligned all the
fronts. Then when you do drill for knobs drill the hole to
the exact size (assuming you're using machine screws from
the in side out) as the screw. This screw will help to hold
the tolerances (gaps) you've established in the previous
Actually, I'd be looking at 1/8"(ish) each edge if the
cabinets are made in the winter and 1/16"(ish) each edge if
made in the summer. Remember, winter projects grow (blow
up) in the summer. Also, if you are building from solid
stock, a slight rounding over of edges tends to hide little
things like non-aligned surfaces and gaps too wide but I
wouldn't round over to the point of using a round over bit
in the router. Delicate is always better than heavy handed.
Well then this will work out real good. Take all your parts
and pieces and get them prep'd to a stage. All you fronts
can be pre-cut to a wee bit over size and set aside. Take
all of your cabinet parts and start putting together the
boxes. By the time you get to the end of that it'll be
summer and you can check your test cabinet for the
clearances. Once you know that, you can cut those to a size
that will work for summer (narrow gaps) and not look too
awful for winter (wider gaps).
One last little tiplet, make your drawer boxes 1/16"
narrower than what you think/what is recommended by the
slide maker. When you go to fit them you can shim the
slides (inside the cabinet) to where you get a perfect fit.
Reason for this is there's always an accumulated error
somewhere in cabinet building and it usually shows up with
the drawers. Believe this, it's easier to shim out some
drawers slides than it is to sand down the boxes to fit a
"now too narrow" opening.
I learned that the hard way. I still have drawers in my tool room that I
haven't opened in 2 years for that very reason. BTW, those drawers are
labeled "important stuff you will probably never need".
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