I'm planning a sturdy but inexpensive workbench.

I'd go with the laminated MDF. I wouldn't even use a plywood top personally.

Nothing. Many people use them. Solid core doors are another option.

Brian.

I use a lot of water based product. I would need to seal the MDF.

I would use MDF but put a tempered masonite top on it. It is very durable, cheap and replaceable. max

I've just completed my workbench. Top is 2 sheets of 3/4" laminated MDF sealed with 3 coats of clear satin Ronseal Varnish.

Malcolm Webb

This group has become rec.mdfworking. :-)

Rub it down with Johnson's paste wax. That makes cleaning up messes a snap.

Brian.

I'm still using one I built around 1978.

It had a 2 X 4 frame with a top of two layers of 3/4 mdf. There was a back 8 inches where there was only 1 layer of 3/ 4 mdf in order to have a depression for small parts. I sealed it with polyurethane. It has been spilt on, pounded on, and moved cross country in a moving van with stuff stacked on it about 3-4 times.

Ugly but still going strong and I have never replaced the top. It has a bottom shelf and a double back rail with slots for putting bladed tools down into. Works for me.

RonT

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 00:27:01 GMT, "Lowell Holmes" calmly ranted:

And rec.norm, rec.minwhacked, rec.stain, rec.poly, etc.

I wish there was a rec.woodworking.constructiongrade.softwoods. :)

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff made with 'junk' softwood lumber. But I also realise there are tricks to using the stuff that don't apply to the pampered, dried, stored indoors hardwoods.

I would love to see more project pictures and talk about creating with SPF from the back lot.:)

Gino...

There have been a number of projects discussed here and shown in ABPW. One of my favorites is Mark Johnson's 2x4 bench (posted about mid-August, I think.)

Earlier today I posted some drawings on ABPW for a 2x4 and plywood cabinet I'm building. You should be able to adapt many projects to softwood lumber if you're willing to do the additional work to plan and allow for shrinking and expansion.

There's at least one book out on building furniture with SPF; but I can't remember author or title - perhaps someone who has it will chime in to help out on this one.

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 20:16:12 -0800, Gino calmly ranted:

That would be alt.construction.birdseyeSPF, Gino. Go for it! ;)

Also check back in Google Groups for Jim McNamara. He was an SPF artiste.

----- = The wealth of reality, cannot be seen from your locality. =

I'm worried the only members would be me and JOAT.:) Just kidding JOAT, I'm sure we would get a few of the 'best' trolls as well.

Thanks, I'll do that. I've been collecting and storing the best of my SPF as I built an addition and workshop. Now I need all the tips I can get on how to create nice stuff that won't turn to junk in a year or two.:) Even my book club is short on 'how to SPF' except for very rustic mostly outdoor and college dorm creations. Tips on building furniture on a weekend afternoon with a hammer and an axe I don't need. I've been doing that for years.:) Now I have a few good tools and a nice little shop to work in and no money left for the good wood.

Why not try getting some rec.woodworking SPF done here? Start post subjects lines with SPF the way we use OT so the reader can skip the post if not interested?

Josie

This is a good idea. I'll try it.:)

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 08:44:11 -0800, Gino calmly ranted:

For the price of bad softwood, sanding sealer, stain, and a poly topcoat (I gag just thinking about all that), you could have had real hardwood and a Waterlox/paste wax finish and be done in half the time with much prettier results. But it's your call.

You're probably right.

It's too bad Google didn't save the ABPF group or you could have seen a lot of Jummy's stuff.

You might be surprised. Look for garage sales. Wood goes for a SONG there, sometimes free with a small tool or something. And even if hardwood is a couple bucks more bd/ft, that usually doesn't put it much over $20 more for any given project. The difference is that it looks and feels better with a finish on it, it lasts a Helluva lot longer, and it's actually easier to work with, especially with hand tools despite its toughness.

----- = The wealth of reality, cannot be seen from your locality. =

But I'm not interested in hardwoods. My interest lies in using my locally grown and cut softwoods. I'm interested in seeing what can be accomplished with SPF.

You could tell a water color painter they would get better more durable results with oils but I doubt you would convince them to switch for those reasons.:)

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 13:44:27 -0800, Gino calmly ranted:

Ah, the "Silk Purse Syndrome" rears its ugly head. Condolences. ;)

In that case, you'll absolutely grok my sig line.

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• Michelangelo would have made ** Website Programming
• better time with a roller. **
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I do. I once saw a folk art pig painted on a chunk of rough spruce in a museum. Conservative estimate of it's value, $30,000.:)