I think that will be enough, maybe. I try to build for the person that
might inherit the furniture and use it to maybe store their gold bars or
lead fishing weights. LOL
Single thickness, 3/4" red oak veneer plywood with a 3/4" x 3/4" piece
of solid red oak on the front edges. That piece is attached to the
plywood shelves with a spline joint.
The center hanging section is done that way too. It is little more
effort to put the supports in the front center stile also. Kind of a no
brainer. This really reduces the need to add extra support to the
shelves them selves to prevent sag. I did this on my previous 3 book
cases and the pantry that I built for our new home.
That will definitely increase the working load on
Good idea, good design, good execution..
Thank you! Thank you Sketchup! That program has really helped me
design better furniture.
I try to overbuild, I don't want a problem at a later date. I am sure
the center stiles add something but the front and back face frames that
have dados to accept the bottom, top, and sides of the cases really adds
rigidity. FWIW I moved the cases with out the shelves and backs by
picking them up by the center front stile.
During the dry fits of the prior 10 cases that I built this way I had
the unit laying on its back glued up face frame and the top, bottom, and
sides fitted into the back face frame dados and the top glued up face
frame fitted on top of all of that. I could lift one corner and the
case would pivot from the opposite back corner. No sag any where.
I often say that quality built furniture always looks good and never
goes out of style. I am sure you and your sister would agree about the
piece you built for her.
Basically well built continues to look well built. Cheaply built
looks less than desirable after a few years.
It is hard keeping the dust out. ;~) My grand mother painted thos, and
about 10 others that I have had, in the mid 60's. I finally inherited
the rest that you saw. I have reframed all of her paintings with like
frames and they all hang in our den.
Thanks again for the kind comments!
Beautiful grain on the back of those cases. Since most books are
shorter than the shelf distance, you'll still be able to see some of it
after the case is loaded up.
The center shelf pins make perfect sense. Good idea. I'll probably
copy it if I do adjustable shelves.
I have seven adjustable shelves plus the bottom shelf on each outer
cabinet and the customers current saggy book cases are pretty much
adjusted so that there are no gaps. ;~( Either way show or no show it
looks goo now. LOL
Yeah the center supports work very well although they totally totally
eleminat the need to go to the "sagulator site" to determine how much
your shelves are going to sag. ;~)
Yeah, I prefer the wider shelving (with pretty good access behind the
center post) over dual narrow shelves. I think I'll use the L shaped,
pinned shelf supports next time, too. They're much easier to work with
than the flatted pins.
If you're trying to take a roomful of people by
surprise, it's a lot easier to hit your targets
if you don't yell going through the door.
-- Lois McMaster Bujold
Leon, a couple more questions.
When you do your double face frame construction, are all the face frames
held together with just glue? And when you attach the face frames to the
body, do you just glue them as well? Are there any mechanical fasteners
How did you drill the holes for the shelf hangers? A commercial jig, or?
The front face frames are held together with floating tenon Dominos and
glue, all butt in appearance joints so to speak.
The back face frames use lap joints 1/3 x 2/3 to form a 1/4" deep rabbet
all the way around the opening to receive the back panels. and then all
of those joints are reinforced with floating Domino tenons. This
provides a very clean looking back side and allows me to screw in the
3 pictures are worth a thousand words.
The back face frame joint,
That joint separated
The detail of that joint with the Domino showing.
For 15+ years I have been using the Rockler shelf pin jig and it has
seen tens of thousands of holes. But it is getting long in the tooth
and showing signs that it could fail, the plastic is cracking around the
guide holes. So I replaced it with this one, smaller than the Rockler
but it gets into tighter spots. I have had this jig about 4 months and
have drilled about 1,300 holes with it so far.
Thank you Dave!
Funny you should mention the red oak looking good. I built with that
stuff for 30 years and only recently started using white oak because of
IMHO nicer color and what seems to me a bit sturdier wood/less
splintery. It has been 18 months since I have really built anything
with red oak and looking at theses book cases I have to agree that this
red oak seems to have a very nice color. Maybe it is the Old Masters
gel varnish. ;~)
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